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The Road to Caramoan Took Four Years and a Day

July 24, 2013, 7:00 pm
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It took me a looooonnngggg time to get to Caramoan. It took me four years and a day. In 2009, I was going to fly in to Legazpi City in Albay and then take the long road to Caramoan, but Mayon started acting up and when alert status was upped to level 2, I ditched the plan and it took me another four years to get to Caramoan. Correction: four years and a day. A day...spent getting from Legazpi City to Caramoan.

It's actually not that far. It was the waiting that made Caramoan seem far.

 
Waiting area in Sabang, Camarines Sur (left)
and crossing the segmented floating bridge to get on the boat bound for Guijalo Port Caramoan (right)
 
0515 Arrived in Grand Central Terminal (Legazpi City) and found a van for Naga
0545 In the van....still in Grand Central Terminal
0615 In the van in Grand Central Terminal mentally willing people to come and get in the van
0645 The van finally fills up and leaves for Naga
0815 Got off at Atayan, Pili
0830 Got on a bus for Goa Terminal
0930 At Goa Terminal, got off the bus and looked for a jeepney for Sabang
0945 Tick tock tick tock...waiting in the jeepney
0955 The jeepney I am in starts rolling out of Goa Terminal
1015 Sabang port! 45 minutes until the next boat trip to Caramoan.
1100 Still on dry land
1200 Still no signal for passengers to board the boat
1230 Boarding is finally announced
1245 And we're sailing!
1345 Still rocking and rolling in the waves
1445 Boat docks at Guijalo Port in Caramoan
1500 Finally stepped on the dock after everyone else spilled out of the boat
1515 Chitchatting with the tricycle driver as we leave Guijalo Port for Paniman Beach
1545 Congratulations! Destination reached: Paniman Beach

Total waiting time: 5 hours and 10 minutes
Total time on the move: 5 hours and 20 minutes
Total time from point A (Legazpi City) to point B (Paniman Beach): 10.5 hours

Guijalo Port (left) and Paniman Beach (right)

So that was the long of it. Here's the short version:
  1. From Legazpi City, take a van (1.5 hours, Php 140) or bus to Naga, Camarines Sur. Get off at Atayan, Pili, Camarines Sur.
  2. At Atayan, Pili, get on a bus for Goa Terminal (1 hour, Php 49).
  3. At Goa Terminal, ride a jeepney to Sabang (20 mins, Php 22).
  4. At Sabang Port, cross the floating bridge (Php 10) to get on the boat bound for Guijalo Port (2 hours, Php 120). Schedule are as follows:  Sabang to Guijalo 530AM / 7AM / 9AM / 11AM / 2PM. Guijalo to Sabang 7AM / 8AM / 9AM / 11AM. Note that schedules are not strictly followed. If there are only a few passengers, sailing will be delayed.
  5. If you're staying in Caramoan Centro, from Guijalo Port, take a tricycle to Centro (10 mins, Php 20/pax).
  6. If you're staying in Paniman Beach, from Centro, hire a tricycle to Paniman Beach (20 mins, Php 150/tricycle). If you're in a hurry, you can hire a tricycle from Guijalo Port straight to Paniman Beach (30 mins, Php 300/tricycle).

St. Michael Archangel Church in Caramoan Centro

There are places to stay in Caramoan Centro and in Paniman Beach. I opted to stay at Paniman Beach, in Kuya Ramil's house (Php 300/pax since I just used the fan; it's Php 500/pax if you want to use the AC). For big groups, the entire house can be rented. It can fit up to ten persons. You can ask Ate Myrna (Ramil's wife) to cook, or spare her the trouble by eating at a nearby resort, or buying food just a few paces away. For drinks and snacks, there are a number of sari-sari stores around Paniman Beach. Island hopping, which, I bet, is your main reason for visiting Caramoan, can be arranged thru Kuya Ramil.

One of the rooms at Kuya Ramil's house

The different Survivor franchises that have filmed in Caramoan have helped the residents of Caramoan by providing jobs. With the money Kuya Ramil earned working as a speedboat driver for the different franchises, he was able to build his concrete house and acquire a number of pumpboats. According to Kuya Ramil, Survivor USA will start filming again on March 2014.


Contact information:
Ramir (tricycle) 0930 616 9766
Ramil and Myrna Cruel (homestay/island hopping) 0907 435 1962 — Don't be fooled by their family name. They're actually good people.


Caramoan, Camarines Sur:
The Road to Caramoan Took Four Years and a Day (you're here!)
The Islands of Caramoan (soon)
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Caramoan Island Hopping

July 27, 2013, 10:13 pm
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There are two island hopping tours in Caramoan: short (Php 1500) and long (Php 2000). The four islands to be visited for the short tour are just a few minutes from Paniman Beach (the jump off point for tours) and the tour can be done in just half a day. The destinations for the long tour are an hour from Paniman Beach but this tour can still be accomplished in just half a day. Maybe the tours should be renamed as near and far. Caramoan has many islands and both tours cover just seven of the many.

I was supposed to take the short tour when I arrived in Paniman Beach...but it was already late. Kuya Ramil suggested to take both tours the next day. So it is possible. I initially thought one should spend one day for each tour.

For the combo tour (Php 3000), we went to the far destinations first (the spots included in the long tour) then moved closer to Paniman Beach (the spots included in the short tour) after lunch.


In the morning, it was the far islands first:

Sabitang Laya Island
According to Kuya Sonny, Kuya Ramil's cousin who was also the guide, when there's a Survivor shoot on Sabitang Laya, the island is kept very clean, but tourists can't step foot on the island. At the time of my visit, there were trash (empty bottles, junk food wrappers, etc.) scattered about. Tsk tsk.

Cotivas Island
An entrance fee of Php 25 is collected on Cotivas island. Need shelter from the sun? Open cottages are available for rent. The caretaker, who lives on the island, collects the money.

Bugtong Beach
Overnight stay at Bugtong Beach on the northern tip of Lahuy island is possible. There are cottages for rent for about Php 1000/cottage. Generators run at night to provide electricity. Day trippers can spend some time at this beach but must pay an entrance fee of Php 25.
One can hike just a short way up on the right side of Bugtong Beach for a view of the sandbar and the sea. Photo was taken during high tide, so no sandbar for you. Can you guess where the sandbar is?
The sandbar is under these floating cottages :-) That rock outcrop is where I stood to take the previous photo. It doesn't look too high, but believe me, it is.

Manlawi Sandbar
A little farther from Bugtong Beach, on the eastern side of Lahuy island, is Caramoan's largest sandbar: Manlawi. There's really nothing much to do but walk on the sandbar. Walking on Manlawi sandbar doesn't feel like you're going anywhere, it's just sand everywhere! The cottages in Manlawi (as seen on the photo below) are also for rent.


After having lunch on the boat (too stingy to rent a cottage), we were off again. We spent an hour tracing our way back to get closer to the next group of islands. But before the islands, we stopped just off the mainland for a bit of snorkeling.
 
Snorkel here!


Matukad Island
Kuya Sonny explained that matukad means to go up or climb up.
What's to climb on this island? A vertical limestone formation where arm and leg stretching is required and finding a good foothold is a must. This probably won't be a problem for people with long legs and long arms.
Why go through all the trouble to climb this sharp limestone formation? To see the lagoon hidden on the other side where one lone bangus (milkfish) swims. They say there used to be two milkfish. A fisherman speared one of the bangus, took it home, cooked it, and he and his son ate the fish. For unknown reasons his son died, then him. True or not, no one has attempted to take the last bangus.
A lonely bangus in a lagoon is not enough reason to climb the sharp limestone? Maybe this view is reason enough.

Lahos Island
Two jagged limestone formations connected by white sand equals two beaches. Lahos in Visayan means to pass through and through. Get the connection?

Cagbalinad Island
Cagbalinad Island gives you a small and serene white sand beach and a little cave.

Minalahos Island
A small island with large rock formations and a small beach. This island is named Minalahos because in the past this island was not given any importance. Remember the root word "lahos"?


Was taking four years and a day to see all this worth it? I wish I had gone sooner. Before Survivor. Before the milkfish in Matukad's lagoon was killed. Back when the only way to get to Caramoan was by land. But then, it would probably have taken me longer then 10.5 hours to get there.



Caramoan, Camarines Sur:
The Road to Caramoan Took Four Years and a Day
Caramoan Island Hopping (you're here!)
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What's in a (Business) Name? Veinte

July 29, 2013, 7:00 pm
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If Carrie, Charlotte, Miranda, and Samantha were pets...
 Spotted in Talamban, Cebu City

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Wisdom from the Road #6

July 31, 2013, 7:00 pm
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On little things

Sometimes something so little can be of big importance.
Literally.
Take for example a safety pin.
It can be very useful when riding a bus and the angry sun is pouring in through the large windows.


Useful in that it can be used to keep the curtains from letting rays of sunlight peek through.
I've added this tiny tool in my travel kit ever since.


What uncanny gadget has helped you on your travel lately?


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Boracay's Chori Burger

August 2, 2013, 7:00 pm
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I have often heard my officemates mention the chori burger that they have tried in Boracay. When I came across a chori burger cart, I did not hesitate to buy a chori burger. The power of the word of mouth.



Uhhh... I don't get what's so special about this. Just two halves of a burger bun that's slathered with sauce and slapped over two slices of chorizo. Maybe it's the sweet and spicy sauce or maybe it was hunger that made them say it's a must try. But when hungry and on the cheap, I guess this is the one to go to. (For something this simple, I think Php45 is too much. Yes, my thrifty self is speaking again.)

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Muffins at Real Coffee and Tea Café

August 4, 2013, 7:00 pm
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While waiting for the boat that would take workers home (and me) to Carabao Island, I killed time by walking from one station to another, looking at signboards nailed on coconut trees. One muffin-shaped signboard caught my eye. It had an arrow painted on the bottom, directing me to the "Home of the Calamansi Muffin." Boredom and the love for lemon cupcakes made me follow the arrows. (Only after the trip did I find out that this place is quite popular... many blogs have raved about it.)


Since I was not looking for a meal, but was focused on trying out just the muffins, I checked the side of the menu listing all the muffins. Aside from calamansi muffins, Real Coffee also had banana walnut muffins, carrot raisin muffins, and muffins that rolled the two into one (banana, walnut, carrot, raisin, plus pineapple)—they called it ultimate muffin.

I only had money for two: an ultimate muffin and a calamansi muffin

Will this blog rave about it? I love lemon cupcakes and their calamansi muffin had the right tang in my opinion. The ultimate muffin tasted just like a carrot cupcake but with extra bits and pieces. For ordinary looking and ordinary tasting muffins, the price is too much. But there was nothing I could do, I was in Boracay. Everything here is expensive.


Real Coffee and Tea Café
Station 1, Boracay, Malay, Aklan
(036) 288 5340


How muffins made me fat and my wallet thin:
Calamansi muffin Php45
Ultimate muffin Php65
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Cupcake Avenue

August 7, 2013, 5:12 am
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No sign at the entrance of EZone that Cupcake Avenue exists...at least I didn't see any. I slowly made my way through EZone with eyes trailed up, looking at all the store signs, and spotted it halfway through the parking area. This sixteen-seater sweet shop is tucked in the far corner of EZone in Panagdait.

I could eat the seat covers.

Cupcake flavors are lemon, red velvet, banana nutella, triple chocolate, smores, cookies and cream, and choco mallow (Php 49 each). Cupcake Avenue also serves sandwiches and pancakes (Php 60-80), fruit shakes, smoothies and coffee (Php 50-90).

Eating alone is no fun.

The trouble with going alone is I can't try as many cupcakes as I would like. I only had their lemon cupcake. The cake itself wasn't as lemony as I would like, but the lemony icing made up for it. I have to bring five friends next time and make each order a different flavor so I can get a bite of each. Who wants to go with me?


Cupcake Avenue
EZone, Panagdait, Mabolo, Cebu City
0922 823 2981
Tuesdays to Sundays 2PM to 10PM

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Chocolate Hills and Tarsiers at Sagbayan Peak

August 8, 2013, 9:12 pm
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The last time I was in Bohol was in 2007. Bohol is just an hour or two away by boat from Cebu and I haven't been back...until July 2013. Why? Because I often take the nearby places for granted. I think, "It's just a few hours away, I can go tomorrow." Next thing I know, tomorrow is 365 days multiplied by six plus six months. 

Six and a half years later and I only go for a day trip. Again, why? That's a question I asked myself, too. So one day in Bohol and what do I do? Go to Sagbayan and Danao.

Sagbayan Peak for two things: Tarsiers and Chocolate Hills.



Sagbayan Peak only has five tarsiers

The view from Sagbayan Peak


Admittedly, the view from Sagbayan Peak is not as awesome as the one in Carmen. But when in a hurry—Carmen is still an hour from Sagbayan, and Corella, where the Philippine Tarsier and Wildlife Sanctuary is, is about 55km southeast of Carmen—Sagbayan Peak would have to do.

Other activities in Sagbayan Peak:
  • Hiking—from the main road to the entrance if you don't hire a motorcycle
  • Swimming—they have a "water park", which is really just a pool, for a separate fee of Php50
  • Eating—both the viewing area and the water park have its own restaurant
  • Catching (not really) butterflies—they have a butterfly dome at the viewing area and catching the butterflies is a no no

Here's the fastest way to Sagbayan Peak from Cebu:
  1. Buy a ticket for the fastcraft to Tubigon. The Starcraft ticket booth is outside Pier 3. Ticket prices for Starcraft are as follows: Php200 economy class/Php220 tourist class/Php280 business class. You can find the Starcraft schedule here.
  2. Take the fastcraft from Pier 3 (terminal fee Php10). Travel time: 1 hour to 1 hour 15 minutes, depending on the craft. The newer ones are faster.
  3. At Tubigon Port, walk (it's just 500m away) or take a tricycle (Php10) to the bus terminal.
  4. Look for a bus (Php 30) or van (Php 50) going to Sagbayan. Tell the conductor to drop you off at Sagbayan Peak.
  5. From the main road, you can either walk to the entrance or take a motorcycle (Php15). Going to the entrance you'd have to take the road (long way). Exiting, you can just take the stairs (short way).

How this quickie Bohol trip bore a hole thru Mustachio's pocket, part 1:
Cebu Pier 3 terminal fee Php 10
Cebu to Tubigon (Star Craft, economy) Php 200
Bus from Tubigon port to Sagbayan Peak Php 30
Motorcycle (habalhabal) to Sagbayan Peak entrance Php 15
Sagbayan Peak entrance fee Php 30


Bohol Quickie:
Chocolate Hills and Tarsiers at Sagbayan Peak (you're here!)
Tarzan in Danao (check back soon)

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A Giant Swing in Danao, Bohol

August 10, 2013, 7:00 pm
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Who would be stupid enough to pay Php 700 to swing and dangle over a 200–meter high and 300–meter wide gorge? Uh...that would be me.

Stupid people like me would have to go to Danao in Bohol for this. At E.A.T. (Extreme, Economic, Educational Adventure Tour) Danao, they call it The Plunge. I call it one crazy jumbo Tarzan swing.

The stupid person gets strapped into a harness, made to walk the plank, secured on the giant swing, made to sit with one's back towards the gorge, lowered down and dangled some meters below the plank, and in three, two, one...released!

Walk the plank

Free falling, I screamed like a girl. And as I swung to the other side of the gorge, I shut my big girly mouth, spread my arms, laid back and took in the sound and touch of the air as I carved a 100–meter arc thru it. A sublime feeling. A sublime feeling indeed.

Screaming like a girl

Relaxing over treetops and the river

Regrettably, I don't have a video of that moment when I dropped my 700 pesos into the gorge and left my soul swinging over it. To help you visualize, maybe this video I searched on YouTube will do.

Don't worry if you have no one to take photos of you, E.A.T. Danao has an official photographer. Not free. A photo print out would cost Php 50. But if you have a thumb drive or a memory card, you can copy all their photos of you for Php 150.

Brgy. Magtangtang, Danao, Bohol
(038) 510 0050 / 0917 302 1700
eatdanao@ymail.com


Other activities at E.A.T. Danao are: ziplining, riding a cable car, rappelling, root climbing, caving, wall climbing, kayaking, river trekking, river tubing, and even flying an ultralight aircraft.

Flying an ultralight aircraft would have been an incredible experience, and an incredible blow on the pocket, too. For Php 2,200 (that's equal to a roundtrip domestic ticket! haha) you can be the co–pilot for 15 minutes. Reservation would have to be made at least a day in advance since the aircraft takes refuge somewhere else (I forgot where, but that's what the receptionist told me). Maybe when I'm filthy rich, that will be the next stupid thing I do.


The fastest way to get to Danao from Cebu is via Tubigon.
  1. Buy a ticket for the fastcraft to Tubigon. The Starcraft ticket booth is outside Pier 3. Ticket prices for Starcraft are as follows: Php200 economy class/Php220 tourist class/Php280 business class. You can find the Starcraft schedule here.
  2. Starcraft leaves from Pier 3 (terminal fee Php10). Travel time: 1 hour to 1 hour 15 minutes, depending on the craft. The newer ones are faster.
  3. At Tubigon Port, walk (it's just 500m away) or take a tricycle (Php10) to the bus terminal.
  4. Look for a bus (Php 30) or van (Php 50) going to Sagbayan.
  5. From Sagbayan town, get on a bus for Danao town proper. Buses for Danao follow a schedule: In the morning at 645 / 745 / 945 / 1045; and in the afternoon at 145 / 245 / 345 / 445 / 515 / 715 / 8. Travel time: 1 hour. Fare: Php 30
  6. From Danao town, hire a motorcycle to take you to E.A.T. Danao at Php 40 per person.
If you miss the bus for Danao and don't want to wait for the next one, hire a motorcycle to take you straight to E.A.T. Danao from Sagbayan proper for Php 150 per person.


I went to E.A.T. Danao after visiting Sagbayan Peak. From Sagbayan Peak, I was planning on taking a motorcycle (habalhabal) to Sagbayan proper (Php 20) and following steps 5 and 6 above. Luckily, I was able to strike a deal with two motorcycle (habalhabal) drivers for Php 600 for three passengers (I was with two friends). From Sagbayan Peak, they took us to E.A.T. Danao, then from E.A.T. Danao to Tubigon port. The ride from Sagbayan Peak to E.A.T. Danao took an hour and the ride to Tubigon took another hour.

Contact numbers of motorcycle (habalhabal) drivers:
Thata 0921 962 3016
Rene 0907 867 0385


How much it costs to become Tarzan:
Two motorcycles (habalhabal) Sagbayan Peak to EAT Danao to Tubigon (Php 600/3 pax) Php 200

EAT Danao entrance fee Php 25
Motorcycle parking fee Php 5 (per motorcycle)
Plunge Php 700
Lunch (5 pax) at a carenderia somewhere between Danao and Tubigon Php 216
Tip for the two drivers Php 100
Tubigon to Cebu (Starcraft, tourist) Php 220 plus Php 5 (I don't know what the Php 5 was for)
Tubigon port terminal fee Php 10


Bohol Quickie:
Chocolate Hills and Tarsiers at Sagbayan Peak
A Giant Swing in Danao, Bohol (you're here!)
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The Old and the New at Golden Cowrie

August 19, 2013, 7:00 pm
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Golden Cowrie has been in Cebu for as long as I can remember. According to their website, since 1982. You'd say I have an excellent memory if "as long as I can remember" goes all the way to 1982. Ha! My first memory of eating at Golden Cowrie does not go that far, but I sure remember...

The oldies but goodies


When Golden Cowrie invited me and two food bloggers for dinner, I was happy they served their bestsellers. Three of which—sinigang (baby prawns), baked scallops, and crispy pata—never fail to make an appearance whenever my family gathers at Golden Cowrie. It was the first time I had their adobong talong and I'm adding it to my must-eat-when-in-Golden-Cowrie list.

In all the years Golden Cowrie has been in Cebu and in the countless times I have eaten there, it was only two months ago that I have found...

The hidden gem


Warning: This small bowl of Taba ng Talangka will require usa ka bandehado na kan-on (a large platter of rice). The good news is Golden Cowrie's rice is unlimited. It's so perfect with rice, you might need to order another Taba ng Talangka.

And it was also during this time that I was introduced to...

The newbies


Okay, so all four new additions to the menu are fried. These may not be too appetizing for the health conscious. But I am not one of them (health conscious people). The Golden Fried Scallops are popcorn, according to one of the bloggers. Popcorn can be addicting, so that's probably a positive description. Ngo Hiong (kinda like a vegetable lumpia) is a Cebuano favorite. Maybe I am not a true blue Cebuano for I am not a fan of ngo hiong. The Deep Fried Liempo is, to quote Golden Cowrie, "simmered with local herbs served crisp" (as it should be!). The Baby Squid con Tinta is squid fried in its own ink. Of the four, I like the golden fried scallops best.

These 11 dishes make up just a portion of their menu. Most of the main entrees range from Php 100 to Php 200; there are a few below Php 100, and a handful above Php 200. Servings are good for two to three persons. Unlimited rice costs Php 39. Desserts are also available for Php 35 to Php 95.

If you'd like to eat at Golden Cowrie (or Hukad sa Golden Cowrie at The Terraces, Ayala Center), better make a reservation. I guarantee, without a reservation, you'd have to wait and wait and wait for a vacant table. Golden Cowrie/Hukad is always full.


Golden Cowrie Restaurant
Salinas Drive, Lahug, Cebu City
(032) 233 4243 / (032) 233 4670
With 15 branches in the Philippines.
And two more opening soon: Butuan and Palawan
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What's in a (Business) Name? Veintiuno

August 29, 2013, 7:00 pm
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The hipster canteen :-)
Spotted along AS Fortuna St, Mandaue City
Thanks for the tip, Babe for Food!
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Wisdom from the Road #7

August 31, 2013, 7:00 pm
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On strangers
They don't bite.

Don't be shy. Talk to a stranger.
He/She might have an interesting story to tell
or words of wisdom to share.


On a plane to Legaspi, I was seated beside a fifty-ish gentleman who looked like he was traveling alone. I was bored and so I asked if he is from Albay (no, he's from Camarines Sur). One question turned into many random topics that never stopped until we parted ways at Legaspi airport.

Two pieces of advice from Sir Seatmate:
  • If your salary doesn't double in five years, quit.
  • Travel while you're young.



Wisdom from the Road
On kindness
On little things
On strangers (you're here!)
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Away from the Madding Crowd: Hambil Beach

September 2, 2013, 7:00 pm
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Ever dreamed of going to Boracay before the mall and big hotels popped up on the island? You can stop dreaming when you find a way to travel back in time. Tell me when you do. In the meantime, why don't we go to...

Reads "Carabao Island: Town with discipline and good manners."

Carabao Island is part of the province of Romblon. This island, also known as Hambil Island, lies on the southern end of the province. It can be reached by pumpboat from Tablas Island, Boracay Island, or Caticlan.

Source
Going to/from Carabao/Hambil Island:
  • From Santa Fe, Tablas Island — One trip daily at 930AM. Travel time: 1 hour. Fare: Php100. The trip back to Santa Fe is at 6AM.
  • From Caticlan — One trip daily at 9AM. Travel time: 1 hour. Fare: Php80. The trip back to Caticlan is between 5AM to 6AM.
  • From Boracay Island — One trip daily between 2PM to 4PM (no fixed schedule). In our case, it was at 330PM. Travel time: 45 minutes. Fare is Php50, but if they know you're not a local, they might charge you more. Boats can be found in Station 1, in front of Real Maris/Zuzuni. If you can't find the boat, ask. The trip back to Boracay Island is between 530AM to 7AM.
Note that the pumpboat will either dock at Brgy Lanas on the western side of Carabao/Hambil Island or at the Port of Said in Brgy Poblacion. Brgy Poblacion, on the eastern side, is where you want to be. This is where Hambil beach is. If it docks at Brgy Lanas, you'd have to hop on a motorcycle (fare is Php60) to get to Hambil beach in Brgy Poblacion.

Map of Carabao/Hambil Island. Click to enlarge. (Source)

Port of Said in Brgy. Poblacion

Hambil Beach

Hambil Beach. No malls. No restaurants. No hotels. No electricity (well, there is, a few hours daily). Camping on the beach is possible. But if you'd rather have a bed, these are the three places I found that can accommodate visitors:

Homestay
Php 500 for 2 pax
Contact Rebecca Bandala Zapra 0999 499 8757 / 0927 610 9457
The house is just across the beach and this is where we stayed for two nights. Since electricity is limited to a few hours a day, it can get quite stuffy in the room. On the second night, we took the mattress from the room and moved it near the veranda for some breeze. For food, Rebecca offered to cook meals.

Republic of Inobahan
Php 750 for fan room
Contact Edison 0918 330 3718
This is also across the beach. This place is owned by the mayor.

EJR Eatery and Lodging House
0921 466 1905 
Located at the town proper, it's just short walk to the beach. The eatery is closed on Sundays.


I prefer a beach like Hambil...
 ...quiet, save for the sound of the waves...

...and the wind whistling through the trees...

...no crowds...
...just some local kids frolicking in the water...

...clean with just the natural flotsam and jetsam washed ashore...
...perfect for a giant mustache!


How peace and quiet can be easy on the pocket:
Boat from Boracay Island to Carabao Island Php 50
Motorcycle from Lanas Beach to Hambil Beach Php 60
Two nights homestay at Hambil Beach (Php 500/night/2 pax) Php 500
Food (five meals) Php Php 353
Port of Said terminal fee Php 10
Boat from Port of Said to Caticlan Php 80


Carabao Island, Romblon:
A Minute on an Island
Away from the Madding Crowd: Hambil Beach (you're here!)
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CMYK Dessert House

September 4, 2013, 7:00 pm
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Archbishop Reyes Ave., Waterfront Drive, Lahug, Cebu City
(032) 260 2182
Mondays to Thursdays 10AM to 11PM
Fridays and Saturdays 10AM to 12MN
Sundays 1PM to 10PM


CMYK
For artists and designers, it stands for Cyan Magenta Yellow Key (black).
For this dessert house, it stands for Chocolates Make You Kiss.

Clockwise from top left: browniezzle, deconstructed mango cheesecake,
choco caramel funnel cake, ube cake

For this mustache, it means...

C for Creative. I have to give it to them for their presentation, especially of the deconstructed mango cheesecake.
M for Melting. All four of the desserts we ordered were melting. Of course. It had ice cream.
Y for Yucky or Yummy or Yawn. It wasn't yucky (I didn't puke). It wasn't yummy (I wasn't wowed). It was... (yawn).
K for Know what I mean?

But if it's true that Chocolates Make You Kiss... I better eat a lot of chocolates. Maybe just not from this place.



How cute desserts don't come cheap:
Browniezzle Php 120
Deconstructed mango cheesecake Php 109
Choco caramel funnel cake Php 155
Ube cake Php 130
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Boljoon's Little Secret: Granada Beach Boutique Hotel

September 6, 2013, 7:00 pm
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I have passed Boljoon many times but never knew this place existed. There are no billboards advertising the hotel. No directional signs on the highway. Granada Beach Boutique Hotel, Boljoon's little secret. Not anymore.


Brgy. Granada, Boljoon, Cebu
0939 476 7762

With only eight bedrooms (rooms are good for four persons; Php3000/room), Granada Beach Boutique Hotel is ideal for an intimate family/friends get together or a team outing. But you can't barge into the hotel without warning. Besides, you wouldn't know how to find it. Do make a reservation and you will be shown the way.


Food and drinks? Granada Beach has a restaurant and they also have a bar by the pool. But you are welcome to bring your own food and drinks.


Activities? If the beach doesn't appeal to you (shore isn't sandy), you can jump in the pool. If you fancy a massage, you can request for a therapist (Php300 for a one hour massage). If you just want to relax, you can climb up the Baluarte, a 15th century Spanish watch tower located within the hotel compound, or just hang out in the breezy little deck near the pool and nurse a drink while looking out to sea. All these we did for a weekend of relaxation, just two and a half hours from home.

The breezy little deck (Photo by C. Alvarez)

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The JRG Halad Museum, A Museum About Music

September 8, 2013, 7:00 pm
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The first time I have heard of and visited the JRG Halad Museum, a museum "where Cebuano musical heritage comes alive" (the museum's tagline), was in 2012. But this museum has been around since 2010. I remember I wasn't hiding under a rock then, how come I did not know about it until 2012? Maybe I should go out more. And maybe you should, too.

Corner V Gullas St. and D Jakosalem St., Cebu City
(032) 268 2579
Tuesday to Saturday 9AM to 5PM
Monday by appointment

Admission fees:
Child/Student Php 10
Adult Php 20
Senior Citizen Free

Jeepneys that pass in front of the museum: 14D, 01K, 03A, 03L, 62B, 62C, 13B

 
"In this internet generation, we are being cloaked over and over with the trappings of modernity, and we are increasingly lost amidst interwoven foreign influences. There maybe no reversing or stopping this global trend but we must not entirely lose our own native identity, which defines who we essentially are." (An excerpt. Click photo to read entire passage.)

The museum is a tribute (halad is Cebuano for tribute) to Cebuano music. It tells about some Visayan music artists and Cebuano 20th century composers. What I liked best about this museum is that it has listening stations where you can listen to some old Cebuano music through modern means: a laptop or an mp3 player. Unfortunately, when I came to visit again two days ago, none of the mp3 players were charged :-(

Learn about Visayan artists and listen to their music

LP records of Pilita Corrales (left) and a listening station (right)

The museum also has phonographs, vinyl records, radios, and musical instruments on display. I didn't see any portable cassette players (you probably know this as the Walkman) and cassette tapes. Maybe I should donate my old cassette tapes. I know the children of today don't have any idea what cassette tapes are.

A working phonograph (left) and vinyl records (right)

An old–school phonograph (left) and a Balalaika, a Russian folk stringed instrument (right)

An accordion (left) and a Gusli, a Russian multi–stringed plucked instrument (right)

There is a door that opens to a stairwell. There is no sign that there's more to see upstairs, but explore it! Here you will find music-inspired art and some Philippine traditional musical instruments. Try your hand on the Maranao Kulintang Ensemble.

 
 Some traditional instruments (left), Kulintang (center), and music–inspired art (right)

There are other sections in the museum that are not related to music. One shows paintings depicting Cebuano life events. If you understand Cebuano, I urge you to read the Cebuano descriptions for each painting...I tried that and found there are so many Cebuano words that I have not heard of. My friends and I tried to guess what some of the words meant and checked if we got it correctly through the English description. (Yes, there is a description in English, I just want you to read the Cebuano one first!)

Paintings showing Cebuano life events

The JRG (Jose R. Gullas) Halad Museum is owned by the Gullas family, who also owns the University of the Visayas (UV) and The Freeman newspaper. The museum also has a small gallery that tells about Jose R. Gullas, The Freeman newspaper, and about the UV chorale.

 
After taking a bunch of photos, I spot this sign.
(Today, I found out through facebook that picture taking is allowed, just without flash.
Whew. Good thing the flash on my seven–year–old camera is broken.)



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Curiosity Led Me to Master Kitchen

September 10, 2013, 7:00 pm
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Does a restaurant with all tables occupied (and mostly by foreigners) pique your curiosity? Master Kitchen, along Gov. Cuenco Ave. (near Banilad Town Center), got me wondering what was cooking in their kitchen. Next chance I got, it was to this kitchen I went.


Ahhh...so this kitchen serves Mongolian rice bowls, pizza, and baby back ribs. A strange mix of food. But a strange mix of affordable food it is. Keyword: affordable. Could it be the reason why I often see this place packed? The 9–inch pizzas go from Php99 to Php139, Mongolian rice bowls from Php49 to Php89, and baby back ribs from Php55 to Php149.


I wanted to try the pizza, but the Filipino rice–eater in me won. Spicy chicken rice bowl it is. Regular or large, what's the difference? Same size bowl, but more chicken. I stop eating rice when my viand runs out, so I get the "large" one. My friend picked the ribs, but chose just one piece with extra rice (regular meal is one piece with two cups of rice).

Spicy chicken (large) and one piece rib with rice (right)

The spicy chicken rice bowl lived up to its name... spicy! I downed my half–liter of water midway through my bowl and had to buy a bottle of softdrinks to try and put out the fire in my tongue. I tried a small bit of my friend's rib and thought it tasted okay with the right tenderness. My friend's comment? More sauce and it would taste like Casa Verde's baby back ribs.

Affordable good food will make it in my book (and, I would guess, in everyone else's book, too). Affordable? Yes. Good? It wasn't Master Chef, but alright for its price. And if I wake up at three in the morning craving for ribs or a rice bowl, there will be a kitchen to invade: Master Kitchen.


Master Kitchen Banilad
Gov. Cuenco Avenue, Banilad, Cebu City (near BTC)
(032) 238 9799 / 0923 691 1116
Open 24 hours a day, 7 days a week


How curiosity killed the pocket:
Large spicy chicken rice bowl Php 69
1 piece baby back rib Php 55
Extra rice Php 15
Bottled water Php 20
Softdrink Php 25 (if I remember right)
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Seven Questions and Two Brains for Coron

September 15, 2013, 4:03 pm
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Brennan of Baktin Corporation has been trying to get me to cooperate in something blog related. He suggested an interview. No way! How about be part of his 7–Questions blog entry? Uhh… I gave many excuses to not be part of any blog entry where I have to answer his (or anyone’s) questions—I am allergic to interviews, including job interviews; it makes my mustache droop.

A month later I receive an email from Brennan with seven questions about Coron (in Northern Palawan). And a deadline. The deadline became an imaginary gun poking my brain. With mustache drooping, I type my answers as fast as I possibly could and here's the outcome...


Why go to Coron?
[Brennan] My quick answer to this is that you can embark on a variety of adventures at Coron: beach bumming, island hopping, shipwreck diving, among many others. But despite the many activities that the island has to offer, it still exudes a charming and laidback feel. It doesn’t pretend to be the next Boracay. And I do hope that it stays that way as well. 
[Mustachio]My quicker answer to this is: Why not? :D

How do you get there, and how do you get around the town?
[Mustachio] Grow wings or gills! Impossible? Then grab a ride on something with wings, like a plane. Cebu Pacific and PAL Express fly to Busuanga (Coron) from Manila and Cebu. Or if you’re coming from El Nido and don’t mind floating around for eight hours, take the boat! There are daily boat trips to and from El Nido for Php1500 per person. In Coron, you can get around in three ways: walk (if you have a lot of time on your legs), hire a tricycle, or hire a van. 
[Brennan] Coron town is small, so everything is just within ‘walking distance.’ ;)

What can you do there?
[Brennan] Don’t leave Coron if you haven’t experienced the Coron island loop tour, climbed Mt. Tapyas to catch the sunset, and dropped by Nanay Lita Escarda’s backyard cashew factory. You can book your adventures through your hotel/inn or the many tour providers by the town center. The fees, including the bangka (outrigger boat) and trike rental, are fixed so you would not feel ripped off in any way. For backpackers, you can also form/join a tour group through Owen Ferrer’s DIY site. It has all the information (tour packages and travel advisories) that you would need in finalizing your itinerary. 
[Mustachio]I am sure you will get sore muscles from Brennan’s suggestions (too much swimming during the island loop tour plus climbing the 700+ steps of Mt. Tapyas). Loosen up those muscles with a good soak in Maquinit Hot Spring and you'll be up and running the next day for more adventures: get a tan in the surrounding islands (Malcapuya, Banana, Calumbuyan), check out the former leper colony in Culion Island, or see zebras and giraffes in Calauit Island.



The view from Mt. Tapyas


Where can you spend the night?
[Mustachio]Depending on the ability of your wallet to spew money, there are many options from high end ones to really cheap ones. I stayed in Patrik and Tezz Guesthouse, a simple place that serves my purpose, a place to sleep in. The guesthouse has only four rooms (Php500-600/room/2 pax) and all four share two bathrooms. Tours can also be arranged through the guesthouse.
[Brennan] I highly recommend Mommita's Lodge, a residence-turned-backpacking-friendly-lodge owned by the very motherly Mrs. Esther Reyes. It is located right along the national road and is just a few meters away from the wharf and Mt. Tapyas.

What food stops should you not miss? 
[Brennan] I’ll name three: 
♦ Try the pitik (slipper lobsters) that are offered in various restaurants in town. It is cheaper compared to the usual lobsters but you can save some more if you can request your hotel/inn to cook some for you. 
♦ Danggit lamayo, for me is the ultimate Pinoy breakfast. It is the product of the curious marriage between marinating and then drying danggit(rabbitfish). You can have one at Foodtrip, an open-air eatery near the public market. 
♦ Savor on Filipino dishes at Kawayanan Grill Station, whose interiors are largely made out of bamboo. The incessant playing of an album from Tribu Calamianen, a local band, completes its semi-exotic vibe.
[Mustachio] May I suggest a shopping stop? Don’t forget to visit the market and buy some danggit lamayo to send to me when you get back. Thank you.

What would you do differently, next time?
[Mustachio] Definitely stay longer.
[Brennan] Me too!!! I’ll also find a way to get to Cabugao Lake, the largest lake in Coron, without disrespecting the Calamian Tagbanuas who consider it as a sacred domain.  I would also like to stay with a Tagbanua family even for just a few days. I drool every time I read Jacob Maentz's stunning narrative of his encounter with them.

Rate your Coron experience.
[Brennan] It’s 8/10 for me and that says a lot already considering that I am actually not a 'water person.' ;)
[Mustachio] 5/10 only because I haven’t seen the other half of it.


Just so you know, the town of Coron is in the island of Busuanga and not in Coron Island. Both islands are part of the Calamianes Group of Islands of Northern Palawan, which also include Calauit, Culion, Malcapuya, Banana, Calumbuyan, and some other smaller islands.


Brennan has consistently (and regretfully, or so he claims) declined my travel invitations. Maybe I did not invite him nicely. Next time I shall invite him oh so nicely with a gun poking his side. Or maybe not. Because if he gives in, it could result in another 7–Questions blog entry. And the cycle will never end.
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Mt. Pinatubo: Good News/Bad News

September 18, 2013, 2:24 am
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Good news. Seat sale! Here's my chance to fly in to Clark and go to Mt. Pinatubo, a place that's been sitting on my list for a long time. Travel date: five to twelve months in the future. No problem, I can wait. One month comes and goes, two, three, four months. 

Bad news. One month to go before I can cross Mt. Pinatubo off my list and I receive a message from the airline that the route I booked has been cancelled. The options they give me are to either cancel the ticket for a refund or to book to another destination. The next nearest airport that the airline serves is Manila, two hours from the jump–off for Mt. Pinatubo.

Good news. I reroute it to Manila and, from the original four days, I shorten the trip to two since my only intention was to visit Mt. Pinatubo. This, at least, will save me from spending for extra days and save my vacation leaves, too.

Bad news. Of the original five that have agreed to go on this trip, only three push through. That means each of us will have to add a bit more to the budget for the common expenses (4x4 vehicle and guide).

Good news. The day has come for me to fly to Manila. Planning on sleeping for a few hours once I get to Manila.

Bad news. Flight is delayed. That means no more time to rest before getting on the bus to Tarlac.

Good news. My good friend, who is based in Manila, picks us up at the airport, we go to her house and repack our things. We check that we have everything we need, zip our bags, then jump in a cab and catch the bus to Tarlac. As soon as we settle in the bus seat, sleep takes over. Our slumber is interrupted two hours later: we are already at McDonald's Capas Junction. McDonald's is open 24 hours, we go in and have breakfast—at 3AM! The earliest breakfast I have ever had.

From McDonald's it's 45 minutes by tricycle to the tourism office. It was still dark when we got there, with one lone light coming from the container–van–cum–office. As the clock slowly approached 5AM, 4x4 vehicles started coming and the officer–in–charge finally arrived.


We were asked to sign some forms and pay the fees. In half an hour, we were churning up a cloud of dust, kilometer by kilometer, on a 4x4 jeep (it's 25 kilometers to the crater from the tourism office). We ate no one's dust—we were the first group to go!

Some scenes along the way

As we approached the start of the hike, seven kilometers from the crater, the 4x4 that had overtaken us a few moments earlier, parked and its contents spilled out, ready to walk. We were aware that it's a seven–kilometer hike on a bad–road–day, but our driver, taking a chance, continued and saw that it was passable. Wheeee, the lazy bums rejoice! We wouldn't have to walk for seven kilometers! With a grin, we pass the hikers and I watch them until they disappear from view. Some minutes later, I see a 4x4 some distance behind us and laugh as I recognize its passengers—it was the group that had started walking. So we weren't the only lazy bums around!

 One kilometer from the crater

Six kilometers of loose rocks, boulders, and streams, and the 4x4 stops. This is the last stop for the vehicle. And we are left with just a kilometer of hiking.


We were the first group to reach Mt. Pinatubo's crater lake and had it all to ourselves for a good 30 minutes. The lake was green, not the turquoise I was hoping for, but click, click, click the camera shutter went, recording every possible angle. (I have always wondered why the color changes. If you know why, do tell me!)

A green crater lake

Swimming in the lake is not allowed. Boating activities have also been stopped—the boats were all padlocked in a shed. We had nothing else to do but bring out the mat, devour our packed lunch at 8AM, then rest under a tree with stomachs full.

Packed lunch turned breakfast part two (left); resting under a tree (right)

One last look before we leave

We only spent about two hours at the lake. Reaching the place where we had left the 4x4, we were amused at the sight: there were more than forty 4x4s! And I thought we were lazy.

A 4x4 convention!

Some photos taken on the way back

Some crazy bikers going to the crater lake under the heat of the scorching sun

Thanks to the sun who was shining at full power, it was the longest ride back to the tourism office. We reached the tourism office sweaty, sleepy, and covered in dust. The store in front of the tourism office will surely make some money if all the other groups arrive in the same condition as us—thirsty and grimy. Aside from selling cold drinks and food, they charge for the use of shower rooms (Php 50) and toilets (Php 10). Such enterprising people.

We traced our way back to Manila the same way we had come: tricycle, bus, cab. At my friend's house, we hurriedly washed up, took a nap (we'll just wake up at 6 for dinner) that turned into a good deep sleep. We woke up at 6....in time for breakfast.


Mt. Pinatubo:
Good News/Bad News (you're here!)
Itinerary, Budget, and Tips (soon)
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Going Solo

September 19, 2013, 7:00 pm
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Going Solo

Most people know Roald Dahl as the author of children's books such as Charlie and the Chocolate Factory, James and the Giant Peach, Matilda, and Fantastic Mr. Fox. These four books were made into movies. But that's not all Roald Dahl wrote. He wrote books for children, teens, and even adults.

The first Roald Dahl book I read was Going Solo. Roald Dahl's memoir written for adults. What was on the backside of the book that made me decide to read it?

"In 1938 Roald Dahl was fresh out of school and bound for his first job in Africa, hoping to find adventure far from home. However, he got far more excitement than he bargained for when the outbreak of the Second World War led him to join the Royal Air Force (RAF)."

With only 210 pages, I finished it in no time. His experiences were, to use his words, "totally enthralling." This is the book that got me reading as many Roald Dahl books as I could get my hands on. If anyone has his other memoir, "Boy", do let me borrow. Please?
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