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Skales Greek Restaurant

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Here's another place we tried in Siargao: Skales Greek Restaurant, a hundred or so meters from Happy Gecko Backpacker's Hostel. Quiet and deserted, it did not deter me from dragging along my friends. I have only tried Greek food once, years ago, and I wanted to reacquaint myself with such cuisine.

 

From the road, only the restaurant's sign that is nailed to the nipa roof of a waiting-shed-kinda-structure can be seen. We had to go up a flight of concrete steps to go to the small open-air dining area with white tables and blue chairs.

Breakfast at Skales Greek Restaurant ranges from Php 45 to Php 130; salads Php95-190; appetizers Php70-150; soups Php85; main dishes Php110-210; desserts Php50-85; and drinks Php35-65. They also have Filipino dishes for Php115-210.

These are what we ordered:

Left to right: Kotopoulo me gemisto, Politiko psari santo forno, chicken tandoori rolled in pita bread

Kotopoulo me gemisto is, according to the menu, "Greek style chicken in red sauce." It is served with rice, potato, or pita bread. After one bite, my friend said, "I could have made this myself."

Politiko psari santo forno is "Greek style baked fish with rice or potato." I would have loved this dish if it wasn't too salty.

Chicken tandoori rolled in pita bread. This one was nothing special. It was just like chicken in pita bread. Like chicken shawarma. Haha :-)

Now I wonder what they mean by "Greek style." Is it blah or salty?


How Skales made us money-less:
Kotopoulo me gemisto Php200
Politiko psari sto. forno Php160
Chicken tandori rolled in pita bread Php150



Three Days in Siargao:
In and Around Siargao Island
La Isla Siargao Bar and Grill
Magpupungko Then and Now
Three Little Islands
Skales Greek Restaurant (you're here)

Siargao's Neighbor, Bucas Grande:

Did You Know That...

Balanghai Kanlunes in Bucas Grande Island

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One can explore Sohoton Cove in Bucas Grande Island as a day trip from Siargao. Since we intended to stay a night in Bucas Grande, we passed up on the 4500-peso day trip. Instead, we took the passenger boat from Dapa in Siargao at 8AM to Socorro in Bucas Grande. The 1.5-hour boat ride to Socorro costs Php100.

We already had a contact in Bucas Grande who would pick us up at Socorro. Otherwise, we could have just looked for a pumpboat in Socorro that could take us to Sohoton. From Socorro, the father and son team whom we hired to take us to Sohoton Cove first took us to Balanghai Kanlunes where we would be staying in an open cabana for a night.

Son and father / Juvil and Max

There are about ten open cabanas for rent (Php1000 a night) at Balanghai Kanlunes. Each cabana has a mattress, pillows, blanket, mosquito net, and tarp (in case of rain). There are also air-conditioned cottages for Php2500 per.

The cabanas

Two toilets and showers are shared by ten cabanas. When the toilets/showers in the cottages are in use, the water at the common toilets/showers stops flowing. Our skin would glitter with salt before we get the chance to take a shower.

If you do not bring food, then the only option is to eat at Balanghai Kanlunes's own restaurant. The food there would cost an arm and a leg: our lunch of two kilos of fish (which looked like it was only a kilo) and rice for three persons cost us Php900. Drinking water though is free.

Wanna wake up to this?

On the upside, the best part about staying at Balanghai Kanlunes is getting lulled to sleep by the crashing waves, having everlasting aircon(tinuous) in the cabana, and then waking up with a view.

So we got robbed by two kilos of fish, grew salt glitters on our skin, and snoozed in the cabana. What else happened to us at Balanghai Kanlunes? We saw the clear blue sea and the islands from the window of an empty wooden cottage on a hill on one side of Balanghai.


We appreciated the calm and quiet of a smaller beach on the west side.


And took a photo of the cottages of Club Tara Resort. Guests of Balanghai Kanlunes can go sight-see at Club Tara Resort for free (non-Balanghai-guests have to pay an entrance fee of Php20). A pathway behind Balanghai leads to Club Tara. We did not take this path, instead dropped by during our boat tour.

Cottages at Club Tara Resort


Balanghai Kanlunes
Fredie Rosillo 0935 418 3244 / 0946 696 3120
* Boat transfers/tour was also arranged by Mr Rosillo


Three Days in Siargao:
In and Around Siargao Island
La Isla Siargao Bar and Grill
Magpupungko Then and Now
Three Little Islands
Skales Greek Restaurant

Siargao's Neighbor, Bucas Grande:
Balanghai Kanlunes in Bucas Grande Island (you're here!)
Lagoon, Lake, and Caves

Siargao and Bucas Grande: Itinerary and Expenses



Bucas Grande: Lagoon, Lake, and Caves

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Our sole purpose of going to Bucas Grande Island was to see Sohoton Cove and its neighboring lake and caves.

The first stop of our tour was Sohoton Cove. It was almost noon on a Saturday when we got to the Sohoton Cove Visitor's Center to register and pay some fees:
  • Entrance fee Php 25
  • Environmental fee Php 25
  • Docking fee (per boat) Php 100
  • Tour guide for the Sohoton Cove tour Php 330
  • Small pumpboat for the Sohoton Cove tour Php 500
  • Paddleboat and guide/paddler for the Jellyfish Sanctuary (per guest) Php 100
Sohoton Cove Visitor's Center

There were already about half a dozen groups and we had to wait our turn for the tour. Pumpboats have to wait at the Visitor's Center and guests have to transfer to a smaller pumpboat for the tour. Only small pumpboats can get into the cove because the entrance to it is through a low–ceilinged cave. Sohot is a Visayan word meaning to pass through a small opening, thus Sohoton Cove.

 

The tour visits two caves: Hagukan Cave and Magkukuob Cave. Guests are encouraged to swim inside Hagukan Cave. For those who don't know how to swim, lifevests can be rented at the Visitor's Center or trust your guide to lead you into the cave. Hagukan Cave is named for the snoring sound the water makes when it hits the opening during high tide. Haguk is Visayan for snore. One would expect the inside of the cave to be pitch black, but it actually isn't. Too bad I didn't have a waterproof camera to take photos of the inside of the cave.

Entrance to Hagukan Cave

It is a short walk to get inside dark Magkukuob Cave (not to worry, your guide is a Boy Scout, he'll have a flashlight with him), then a bit of climbing to get to the exit. It is also known as Diving Cave because you have to jump off a platform to exit. You can actually trace your way back to the entrance but it's easier to just jump off than navigate your way down the slippery cave.

The exit is 15 feet above the water

After visiting these two caves, we were taken back to the Visitor's Center to transfer to a paddleboat for the Jellyfish Sanctuary. Only one guest per paddleboat and paddler/guide. I asked for an extra paddle from my guide and started paddling. My paddling was taking us anywhere but the jellyfish lagoon. I eventually just hummed a tune and pretended to paddle.

Paddling to the Jellyfish Sanctuary

The shallow entrance to the sanctuary

The jellyfish are stingless. One can touch them but not take them out of the water for more than a minute or they die. The jellyfish appear from March to July and are abundant around April. It is best to go to the sanctuary when the sun isn't too high up—the jellyfish hide when it's hot, at least that's what my guide said. Swimming is strictly prohibited at the sanctuary.

 
Photo by D. Ogabang

After Sohoton Cove and the Jellyfish Sanctuary, we proceeded to Tiktikan Lake, Bolitas Cave, Crystal Cave, and a newly explored cave, Tundan Cave (thanks Glen for the info). All three caves are in the same area.

An entrance fee of Php20 is collected at Tiktikan Lake. To go to the lake, we had to follow a path that ascends then descends. Cottages for overnight stay and open cottages for picnics dot the area around the lake. It was too quiet at the lake, I don't think I'd want to stay the night there. :-)

 
Entrance to Tiktikan Lake

 Two sad pawikans in a pen by the entrance :-(

A wooden sculpture of the tiktik bird (left) halfway to Tiktikan Lake (right)

After the lake, we boarded our boat and were taken to another area where Bolitas, Crystal, and Tundan Caves are. To explore the caves a guide and flashlights are required. No guide fees but tips are always welcome. Flashlights can be rented for Php20.

The first cave we went into was Tundan Cave. It took us almost an hour in and out of it. There were portions where we had to crawl, tuck our stomachs in, and wriggle our way through. After this exploration we were drenched in sweat and covered in mud.

Inside Tundan Cave (left) and Crystal Cave (right)

Crystal Cave was easy to explore. No wriggling and shrinking yourself required. After the two caves, where we saw shiny, sparkly formations inside, we didn't bother going into Bolitas Cave (the entrance to Bolitas is a narrow passage by the mouth of Crystal Cave). It was already dusk when we emerged from Crystal Cave. We were grimy, muddy, stinky, and exhausted.

For Php3000 we were picked up from Socorro, taken on a six-hour tour of caves and lakes, and, the next day, taken to the mainland (Brgy. Hayanggabon, Claver, Surigao del Norte) to catch a van (1.5 hours, Php120) going to Surigao City.

 Hayanggabon port (left) and the van terminal just outside the port (right)

Boat transfers/tour was arranged thru:
Balanghai Kanlunes / Fredie Rosillo
0935 418 3244 / 0946 696 3120



Three Days in Siargao:
In and Around Siargao Island
La Isla Siargao Bar and Grill
Magpupungko Then and Now
Three Little Islands
Skales Greek Restaurant

Siargao's Neighbor, Bucas Grande:
Balanghai Kanlunes in Bucas Grande Island
Lagoon, Lake, and Caves (you're here!)

Siargao and Bucas Grande:Itinerary and Expenses

Siargao and Bucas Grande: Itinerary and Expenses

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In case you wanted to know the sequence of events...

Note: Island hopping in Siargao can be done in half a day. Magpupungko can also be visited in just half a day. 
I usually don't do Amazing–Race–paced trips so I spent a day for each.


...and how pocket holes were made.

Note: I did not include the airfare from Cebu to Siargao. I got the ticket at a promo price. Regular one way airfare starts at around Php1200.



Three Days in Siargao:
In and Around Siargao Island
La Isla Siargao Bar and Grill
Magpupungko Then and Now
Three Little Islands
Skales Greek Restaurant

Siargao's Neighbor, Bucas Grande:
Balanghai Kanlunes in Bucas Grande Island
Lagoon, Lake, and Caves

Siargao and Bucas Grande: Itinerary and Budget (you're here!)

I Asked, Ryo Answered

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This is Ryo, a Japanese we met last year on the bus from Phnom Penh to Saigon. He came by Cebu for a weekend visit April of this year, taking a break from his English studies in Manila. I made him practice his English by answering some of my questions. :-D

What made you want to travel? I think experience is most important. I can experience a lot of things through traveling. And I think seeing is believing. I can learn many things too, especially when I'm in a foreign country. Moreover, I can meet many new friends and get good memories. There are many reasons. Anyway, I just like to experience exciting things to make good memories.
Do you prefer traveling alone or with a companion? Why? I like both. If I travel alone, I can meet many new people and I can improve myself. If I travel with my friends, I can get along with my friends more and make good memories with them. I can't choose one. But I don't like being alone. If I travel by myself, I want to meet people. (laughs)
Why did you decide to study English? I wasn't able to speak English when I traveled to foreign countries before. I was able to communicate with Japanese only. Then I thought if I could speak English, I would be able to enjoy my travel more. If I learn English, I can talk to foreigners as well as Japanese. I wanted to get along with foreigners.
Why did you choose to study in the Philippines? Studying English in the Philippines is cheaper than in other countries. And studying English in the Philippines is perfect for beginners, I thought. Because Filipinos speak English more slowly and clearly. That's why I came here.
What is the strangest thing that has happened to you while you were traveling? Actually I didn't like going out alone before because I was really shy. I didn't even go to the clothes shop alone. When I go to the shop, some staff would talk to me. That's why I am always with someone. But through travel, I changed. Now I can do many things by myself. I couldn't imagine I would enjoy traveling despite being by myself.
The most memorable? Making Japanese friends. Even if we are together only one day, we would be best friends just because we are from the same country. I could make many friends through travel. So meeting new people makes good memories for me. And it will continue even when I come home to Japan.
What's the strangest food you have ever eaten? Where was this? Of course. Balut in the Philippines.


Bring Home the Brownie Cup!

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I wrote about U.B.E or Ultimate Brownie Experience a month or so ago. U.B.E now has a different name—Team Brownie—but with the same mouthwatering effect! :D And a new flavor to boot! Smores!

 


Smores is dark fudge with a little extra—a big marshmallow and pieces of graham crackers. I have tried all three flavors—dark fudge, red velvet, and smores—and I still can't decide which one I like best! Everything is wonderfully addicting. I better go get my blood sugar checked.


But not before I have my second cup! Since I have no microwave...look where I "cooked" it! It's not as effective as a microwave, but...if there's a glutton, there's a way! Thanks to the kind attendant for letting me use the siopao/siomai steamer for five minutes. :-)


0922 8822 655
teambrowniecebu@gmail.com

Brownie cups go for Php55 each. Minimum of five cups to order. If you're craving for one now, please put it on hold for two or three days... orders must be placed two to three days in advance.

What's in a (Business) Name? Diecinueve

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Marriett Hotel Bed and Breakfast
 
Spotted in Mati, Davao Oriental


Wisdom from the Road #5

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On kindness
Do not refuse a kindness.

Alex, a local we met in Siargao, offered to look for a motorcycle to take us back to where we were staying. We didn't want to take more of his time, and so declined, thanked him, and bid farewell. We figured we'd just walk the 2.5 kilometers. Less than a kilometer of walking, we realized it was getting dark and we didn't have a flashlight with us. There were no street lamps. We slapped our foreheads and headed back where we came from to look from a motorcycle. We should have just accepted Alex's kindness.




Wisdom from the Road
On kindness (you're here!)

Chicken Junction

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I got mail! And I have mixed feelings about it. It's an invitation for a free meal at Chicken Junction in One Pavilion Mall in Banawa. On one hand, who wouldn't want free food? On the other, it makes me feel like I am obliged to write positively (or as nicely as I can) about whatever it is I am about to be fed. Thankfully, I wouldn't have to lie about this one. (Not that I lie about anything. I am an honest man. Honest.)


Since buddy also got a coupon, we went to Chicken Junction together. They have a simple menu of grilled/fried/sizzling chicken and pork (Php89-95), plus pasta (Php65-70) and sandwiches with fries (Php65-70). Drinks are priced at Php25-35.


The coupon was only good for select dishes: chicken inasal, glazed crunchy chicken, sizzling devil'd chicken, and (not on the menu board) glazed chicken sandwich. We chose the not so common ones: glazed crunchy chicken and sizzling devil'd chicken.

Glazed crunchy chicken (left) and sizzling devil'd chicken (right)

The glazed crunchy chicken was tender and sweet (as how "glazed" should be!). It had a side of coleslaw of cabbage and carrots. The side was also sweet. I would have wanted something pickled to counter the sweetness of the chicken. But that's just me. And the sizzling devil'd chicken? Tender and spicy. A very very good choice! Our only complaint was the pineapple juice. It tasted like the powdered kind. But we are not here to talk about the drinks, are we?

Chicken Junction, thank you for the coupons! Your food did not disappoint! By the way, a little bird told me your pork sisig is also commendable. Will go back for that!


Chicken Junction
One Pavilion Mall, Banawa, Cebu City
(032) 253 0611
Daily 9AM to 9PM


How Chicken Junction gave my wallet a break:
Glazed crunchy chicken Php92 free
Sizzling devil'd chicken Php89 free
Pineapple juice Php28

Let's Pinangat, Shall We?

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I'm going to Albay. I'm going to eat Bicolano grub. I must eat Bicolano grub! And I am making sure pinangat is one of them. My tastebuds first encountered pinangat in Camarines Sur in 2012. Afterwards, because I was never given the gift of cooking, I could only salivate at photos and recipes of pinangat.

According to Camalig's website, "Pinangat is a nutritious vegetable dish whose main ingredient includes gabi leaves, a bit of red ginger, tiny shrimps or a slice of salted fish or pork. Crushed pepper is added to the mixture to make the pinangat hot. The entire recipe is then wrapped in gabi leaves and tied in small bundles. These are placed in a palayok (clay pot) and cooked in coconut milk."

I am sure I can find pinangat just about anywhere in Albay, but when I discovered my route was through Camalig, the hometown of pinangat, I could not let the opportunity literally pass me by.


Let's Pinangat, in the town of Camalig, is a very simple eatery. It looks like a cafeteria with a set of viands in a stainless steel and glass case, a separate display of Bicolano delicacies, and a glass–front refrigerator stocked with beverages. Three enormous stainless steel containers piled one on top of the other, full of hot steaming pinangat, sweat on a table between the case of viands and display of delicacies. Locals constantly trickle in to buy food either for take out or for dining in. There are other dishes on offer but everyone who came, I observed, have at least an order of pinangat. It must be really good then.

 

For forty pesos, I get one huge serving of pinangat. Seriously huge! I could only finish half of it with my one cup of rice. If I wasn't too full, I would have ordered two cups of rice and eaten everything. It is with regret that I had to leave half of this delicious pinangat behind.


Find your way to Let's Pinangat:
From Legazpi City, take a Camalig–bound jeepney. Jeepneys going to Guinobatan/Ligao City/Oas/Polangui also pass by Camalig. Let's Pinangat is along the highway. I am positive jeepney drivers know where it is.


How this simple meal was heavy on Mustachio's stomach but light on his pocket:
Pinangat Php 40
Rice Php 15



A Fraction of Albay:
Camalig: Let's Pinangat, Shall We? (you're here!)
Ligao City: Kawa-Kawa Hill
Ligao City: La Terraza Restaurant
Legazpi City: Affordable Accommodations

Ligao City's Kawa-Kawa Hill

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I flew to Albay with no definite plan and just these two goals: eat Bicolano food and see Mount Mayon. A few days before the trip I saw a photo of an unusual hill, a hill with its center scooped out, I should say. I tucked that picture in my mind for future reference.

Source

One boring day, while sitting in a bus en route to Legazpi City, I mentally dug up the photo and thought, 'Why not? I don't have anything else to do today anyway.' I informed the bus conductor of my destination, he gave me my ticket, I examined it, handed over my bus fare, and sat on my auto–recline seat. My seat kept reclining on its own every few minutes, probably trying to get me to sleep, for it knew the bus was lethargic. After what seemed like hours, the bus conductor finally announced "Kawa-Kawa hill!" Off the bus I went with the bus conductor telling me to just take a tricycle to Kawa-Kawa hill. So I did. Three minutes into the tricycle ride, the tricycle driver stopped and said we're here. Huh? That near? I could have just walked.

I looked around and couldn't find any sign telling me that I was at Kawa-Kawa hill. Turns out the drop off point of tricycles is halfway between the highway and the entrance of Kawa-Kawa hill.

Pathway between stations

From where the tricycle dropped me off, it was only a hundred meters or so to the entrance but my backpack grew heavier with every step up the incline. And it dawned on me...I am getting old. I know it's going to be my shallow version of Calvary if I lug my bag around Kawa-Kawa. At the entrance, I asked around if I could leave my bag somewhere and a lady selling cold drinks and snacks kindly offered to keep my bag (without asking for payment) in the wooden table-slash-cabinet on which she displays her goods. Thank you, ma'am, for getting it off my back.

Stations of the Cross

The hill, because of its shape, got its name from the Filipino word for cauldron: kawa. Kawa-Kawa Hill is more of a religious destination because of the Stations of the Cross beginning at the entrance, going up the hill and around its rim. At some point near the 10th Station, I took a sweeping look around and saw that the hill is indeed awesome. Too bad my photo couldn't convey its awesomeness.


I admit I didn't go to Kawa-kawa hill for the Stations of the Cross, but for the view. I circumnavigated its rim, breathed deep for the fresh air (and to catch my breath), and just took in all the greenery surrounding me. I wanted to snooze in the open–air cottage but the kind lady might get worried that I wouldn't come back for my bag.



Kawa-Kawa Hill
Brgy. Tuburan, Ligao City, Albay
Daily Morning (yup, that's what the sign says) to 8PM


How to go to Kawa-Kawa Hill:
Kawa-Kawa Hill is about 30 kilometers from Legazpi City. From Legazpi City, take a jeepney to Ligao City/Oas/Polangui. The jeepney driver will know where to drop you off. From the highway, either take a tricycle (Php 8) or walk. Visiting Kawa-Kawa Hill is free but donations are most welcome.


A Fraction of Albay:
Camalig: Let's Pinangat, Shall We?
Ligao City: Kawa-Kawa Hill (you're here!)
Ligao City: La Terraza Restaurant
Legazpi City: Affordable Accommodations

La Terraza Restaurant

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A tarpaulin with a photo of a bowl of halo-halo. Mmmm...tempting. After an hour of going up and down and around Kawa-Kawa Hill on a warm day? I gave in to temptation. Advertising works.

La Terraza Restaurant is just a few meters before the entrance of Kawa-Kawa Hill. Even before I had settled on a chair, "One halo-halo na may lambanog (Php 65), please". And the mistake of taking a look at the menu. A quick scan of the menu resulted in an order of sisig pansit guisado (Php 100). A case of having eyes bigger than the stomach.

Halo-halo na may Lambanog (left) and Sisig Pansit Guisado (right)

The halo-halo had red beans, nata de coco, mango, buko, melon, ube, a scoop of ice cream, a choco wafer stick, and a cup of lambanog (coconut wine). I found out, while talking to one of the staff, that this has been featured in a Philippine TV show. It did have a different taste because of the lambanog, but it didn't make me a fan. Maybe because I was never a fan of wine?

The sisig pancit guisado comes in two sizes. The larger one costs Php 200. The one I got was for Php 100 and it looked like it could feed up to four persons. Good price for its serving size. The reason for ordering this? Sisig. I love sisig. But this one was a bit of a disappointment... it was too salty.

It's either not my day or not the cook's day.


Carmel Heights, Kawa-kawa, Brgy. Tuburan, Ligao City, Albay
0917 302 0932
Daily 7AM to 9PM


A Fraction of Albay:
Ligao City: Kawa-Kawa Hill
Ligao City: La Terraza Restaurant (you're here!)
Legazpi City: Affordable Accommodations

Affordable Accommodations in Legazpi City

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This post is for those looking for a cheap place to stay in Legaspi City in Albay. Because I am a cheapo myself...

...I risked my life by staying in Sampaguita Tourist Inn [Rizal Street, Legazpi City. (052) 480 6258]. Sampaguita Tourist Inn welcomes guests with a huge sign at their front door declaring: This building is a fire hazard.

Rates start at Php 275 (single, fan room) / Php 400 (double, fan room). The rooms are simple: bed, pillow, blanket, fan, table and chair, towel, soap, and a toilet and bath. Higher than Php 275, of course, for rooms with TV and/or airconditioner.


Because "This building is a fire hazard" kept gnawing at my brain, I just stayed a night in Sampaguita Tourist Inn. In my search for other affordable accommodations I checked out two inns also along Rizal Street: Twilight Zone Hotel [(052) 480 9374] and Great Pacific Tourist Inn [(052) 820 6348]. Both are slightly better (no signs that they were a fire hazard!) and slightly higher in price than Sampaguita Tourist Inn.

On a positive note: All three are along Rizal Street where one can easily catch a jeepney ride to towns east or west of Albay.


Still not satisfied with those two inns, I was led to RMJ Apartelle [Rose Street, Imperial Court Subdivision Phase 2, Legazpi City. 0917 558 9100 / 0928 507 9988. magendelrosario@gmail.com], in a subdivision just off Rizal Street. RMJ Apartelle looks newer than the three inns because it is quite young, less than two years old.



All rooms have AC, toilet, hot and cold shower, cable TV, cabinet, bed with pillows and sheets, table and chair, and a mini kitchen. Towels are provided. The room I stayed in was clean and so was its toilet and shower. Not bad for Php 650. There are three room types available: Php 650 (up to 2 pax) / Php 750 (up to 4 pax) / Php 900 (up to 6 pax). Breakfast is also available for a separate fee. The downside: it's in a subdivision and if you're too lazy to walk, you'd have to take a tricycle. Streets can be quite dark at night.

All four accommodations mentioned above are very near Gaisano Pacific Mall (where you can find 1st Colonial Grill, a popular restaurant in Legazpi City) and Legazpi Grand Central Terminal (where you can ride jeepneys for other points in Albay and vans for Camarines Sur and Sorsogon).


A Fraction of Albay:
Ligao City: Kawa-Kawa Hill
Ligao City: La Terraza Restaurant
Legazpi City: Affordable Accommodations (you're here!)

Legazpi Eats: 1st Colonial Grill, Small Talk Café, Bigg's Diner

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In Albay, I had two goals: eat Bicolano food and see Mount Mayon. Goal number one? Checked. Three times. Thanks to friends who have been to Albay for suggesting these restaurants.


1st Colonial Grill
G/F Pacific Mall, Landco Business Park, Legazpi City, Albay
(052) 481 1212 / (052) 820 0985

Other branch: Villa Amada Bldg. Rizal St. Daraga, Albay


Objective: Try 1st Colonial Grill's strange flavored ice cream. Strange in that the flavors are not your usual chocolate/strawberry/vanilla variety.

On the table: In addition to three scoops of ice cream (Php 79) of different flavors—tinutung, malunggay, and pili—this hungry man also had lunch of tinutungang manok (Php 239) and tinapa rice (Php 35/cup).

Of all the items on the menu, why these: My lunch choices were thanks to a brochure I picked up at the airport. I heeded its advice—any form of advertising works on me, haha.

Tinutungang manok (left) and tinapa rice (right)

Tinutungang manok is "chicken stewed in coconut cream extracted from slightly scorched coconut milk that infuses a distinct smoky flavor." Tinutung means burnt. Tinutungang manok had bananas which I found unusual but went well with the overall flavor of the dish. Yes, I liked the tinutungang manok though I found it expensive.

I am not sure if the cup of tinapa rice is any different from the platter in terms of taste but the photo on the menu of the platter of tinapa rice had salted egg, green mangoes, and tomatoes, while I couldn't find any of these in my cup(s) of rice. The rice, for me, wasn't any different from other tinapa rice I have tried. My tinutungang manok would have been more compatible with plain rice.

Tinutung na ice cream, malunggay ice cream, and pili ice cream

And the main reason for eating in 1st Colonial Grill: ice cream! There were five flavors to choose from: sili (chili), kalamansi (Philippine lemon), malunggay (moringa), tinutung ("burnt" rice), and pili. Although 1st Colonial Grill is known for its sili ice cream, I skipped this since I have tried it from another ice cream shop (the hotness comes as an aftertaste and yes, it is hot!). I would have wanted to try kalamansi (I like lemon) but my brain chose vegetables, grains, and nuts, over fruits. Malunggay ice cream was alright. Not something I would really crave for. Tinutung na ice cream—imagine burnt rice turned into ice cream. Interesting! But of the three flavors, I liked the pili ice cream best because I like pili nuts. Biased much.

Would I recommend 1st Colonial Grill? Yes. For the ice cream.



51 Doña Aurora St., Legazpi City, Albay
(052) 480 1393 / (052) 437 8708
Daily 11AM to 10PM


Objective: Try the Bicol inspired pasta and pizza.

On the table: A lot! Please see photos below.

Of all the items on the menu, why these: Because of the following keywords: Mayon, Bicol Express, and pili. I should mention that I did not eat all these in one sitting. I liked their affordable food so much that I had to go there again.

Left to right: Pasta Mayon, Bicol Express pasta, Pili basil pasta

Let's talk about the pasta. The descriptions according to Small Talk Café's menu: Pasta Mayon (Php 105) is pinangat/laing stuffed in ravioli pasta with red tuna sauce. Bicol Express pasta (Php 105)—alamang (itty bitty shrimps), sili (chili), gata (coconut milk) sauteed in garlic. And pili basil pasta (Php 120)—garlic, roasted pili nuts, fresh basil.

I couldn't really taste the pinangat/laing of Pasta Mayon. Bicol Express pasta was so spicy it made my eyes water. Even if I had to drink five glasses of their iced tea (thankfully, it's bottomless) to try to keep the tears at bay, I loved it! I liked the pili basil pasta because of the pili nuts! Haha. Again, I'm just biased. Of the three, I liked Bicol Express pasta best, and Pasta Mayon least.

Fiery Mayon stuffed pizza

The Fiery Mayon stuffed pizza (Php 265) is stuffed with laing, Bicol Express, tinutungan na gata (smoked coconut milk), and Guinobatan (a town in Albay) longanisa. A winner!

Rum cake with pili (left) and pili pie (right)

To wash away all the chili, desserts! Rum cake with pili (Php 60) was too buttery for my taste. I could only eat a third of it. I think the pili pie (Php 50) is one of their best sellers... on the basis that on my first visit, they had run out of stock.

Would I recommend Small Talk Café? Yes! Good food that's affordable. Appetizers start from Php 65; snacks from Php 45; pasta from Php 95; pizza from Php 215; vegetables from Php 45; chicken/beef/pork/seafood from Php 115; desserts from Php 22; and drinks from Php15.



See website for branches around Albay and Camarines Sur


Objective: I read somewhere that Bigg's Diner is the biggest and best food chain in Bicol. Wanted to know what the fuss is all about.

On the table: Baby back ribs (Php 214), chicken cordon bleu with laing (Php 187), and pineapple juice (Php 47).

Of all the items on the menu, why these: According to the cashier one of their bestsellers is baby back ribs (Php 214). Dear Cashier, Are you sure this is a best seller? Their baby back ribs, for me, was nothing special. I can get tastier and bigger servings of baby back ribs in Cebu for much less. I decided to have chicken cordon bleu stuffed with laing (Php 187)...because of the laing. I found the chicken cordon bleu too dry. Boo.

Baby back ribs (left) and chicken cordon bleu stuffed with laing (right)

Would I recommend Bigg's Diner? No. I wasn't impressed with the food. Top it off with high prices (meals cost from Php 72 to Php 214). No, thank you.




A Fraction of Albay:
Ligao City: Kawa-Kawa Hill
Ligao City: La Terraza Restaurant
Legazpi City: Affordable Accommodations
Legazpi Eats: 1st Colonial Grill, Small Talk Café, Bigg's Diner (you're here!)

Stalking Mayon

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My two goals in Albay were to eat Bicolano food (checked three times) and to see Mount Mayon (checked seven plus plus times).


Legazpi Airport

Albay welcomes every traveler flying in to Legazpi City with a view of Mount Mayon. Unfortunately for me, I was on the wrong side of the plane. But no matter, at the tarmac, Mount Mayon provides a beautiful background to an otherwise boring foreground.

A grand welcome to Albay.
And when flying out of Legazpi City, a view like this makes waiting for departure time a lot less boring.

Getting to and from Legazpi airport: Take a tricycle. It would cost Php 50 per tricycle going to the city center from the airport (and vice versa). The tricycle will take you straight to wherever it is you want to go, provided it's in Legazpi City. If you want a cheaper option, from the airport, walk about 400 meters to Washington Drive, and take a jeepney to the city (minimum fare is Php 8).


Ligñon Hill

Ligñon Hill is located just behind the airport, but I don't know if you can exit from the airport through a back door :-) The park is open daily from 8AM to 10PM (entrance fee is Php 20). It is open to joggers from 5AM to 8AM for free, all they have to do is jog jog jog all the way up up up the hill.

Mayon hiding behind clouds as seen from the zipline tower at Ligñon Hill

Gawking at Mayon is not the only activity at Ligñon Hill. Getting to the hill is an activity in itself. From the highway, you have to take an easy uphill walk to the entrance. After paying the entrance fee, you can arrange for an ATV ride (Php 1800 for a 150cc ATV) and then visit the Japanese tunnel (for a fee of Php 10) just a few meters from the entrance. The tunnel was used by the Japanese as a storage area for ammunition during World War II. What's there now? Just a short, well lit tunnel with some sad–looking military–costumed mannequins.

A tired mannequin–soldier guards the entrance of the tunnel

Then the real challenge begins. Going up the hill. It's a 15–minute hike uphill, with no flatland in between. If you want to take a shortcut, you can take the Kapit Tuko Trail. I took the shortcut and I reached the top with sweat dripping from my forehead, my eyebrows, my nose, my neck, my armpits. A big sweaty mess. I should have just taken the long road. (Do not take the shortcut if it's raining or if it just rained. The trail can get really muddy.)

Beginning of the Kapit Tuko Trail

Other activities along the long and winding road (if you don't take the shortcut) are rappelling and crossing the hanging bridge.

The road ends at the observatory which sits on top of the hill. The observatory houses souvenir shops, restaurants, and restrooms. Off to the side are two ziplines (Php 250 for the basic zipline and Php 350 for the "Superman" zipline). Surrounding the observatory are benches and green grass, where you can relax and gawk at Mount Mayon to the north. Your main purpose in visiting Ligñon Hill, I suppose. If you get bored staring at Mayon, you can go to the opposite side and look at airplanes land or take off with Legazpi City as the background.

The airport runway and Legazpi City as seen from Ligñon Hill

Going to Ligñon Hill: If coming from Legazpi City, take a Loop 1 jeepney (fare is Php 8).


Daraga Church

You guessed it. I came here to see Mount Mayon and, I'm ashamed to say, not the church. From what little information I read on the sign outside the church: Daraga Church was built by the Franciscan missionaries in 1773. You can read more about the church here.


Hear mass at Daraga Church with this view tugging your eyes to the right

Going to Daraga Church: Take a Legazpi–Daraga jeepney and tell the driver you're going to Daraga Church. From the main road it's a short uphill walk to the church.


Cagsawa Ruins

I have seen many photos of an old bell tower with Mayon in the background and I bet you have, too. This is Cagsawa Ruins, a popular tourist stop in Albay.

Just before the gate to the ruins, souvenir shops abound. Entering the gate will entail a fee of Php 10. Beyond the gate are more souvenir shops and what remains of Cagsawa Church after the 1814 eruption of Mount Mayon.

It is best to go really early in the morning, say 6AM, when Mayon is most likely to show herself. There's really not much to do here but see Mount Mayon and have one of the photographers take silly pictures of you. The photographer won't ask for a fee but will expect a donation.



Going to Cagsawa Ruins: Take a jeepney going to Guinobatan/Ligao City/Oas/Polangui. From the highway, it's a short 500–meter walk to Cagsawa Ruins. But on a hot day, instead of slowly sweating for 500 meters, you might want to take a tricycle (Php 10 per person).


ATV

They say a visit to Albay would not be complete without an ATV ride. There are a few tour operators offering ATV rides. It was when I was walking to Cagsawa Ruins that I noticed so many ATVs parked in rows. Ah, the headquarters of Bicol Adventure ATV.


Trails offered by Bicol Adventure ATV as of June 2013
(Click to enlarge)

This is a pretty expensive activity. All you do is drive around in a little ATV over rocks, streams, grass, mud. Go uphill, downhill, left, right. Take wide paths, narrow paths, no path. And in the end, feel your right hand go numb from squeezing the brakes and gripping the handle for three hours (depending on the trail; choose a shorter trail for a less hand–numbing experience, or better yet, don't use the brakes. Haha).

The terrific view

Oh, and the reward? A majestic view of Mayon, Legazpi City, and Camalig (Mi-isi Green Lava trail)—if it's not blanketed in fog.



Yes, Embarcadero de Legazpi is a mall. A mall with a view of Mayon. On my last day in Legazpi City, with nothing else to do, I decided to go to Embaracadero to stalk Mayon, yet again, and then have dinner.


Going to Embarcadero de Legazpi: Take a Legazpi–Daraga jeepney. The driver will know where to drop you off. Then it will be a 10–minute walk to the mall. If you're too lazy to walk, look for jeepneys plying Daraga–Tahao Road–Arimbay.


On the road

Heading north on a van to Pili in Camarines Sur from Legazpi City, I waved goodbye to Mayon from my window.




A Fraction of Albay:
Ligao City: Kawa-Kawa Hill
Ligao City: La Terraza Restaurant
Legazpi City: Affordable Accommodations
Legazpi Eats: 1st Colonial Grill, Small Talk Café, Bigg's Diner
Stalking Mayon (you're here!)

Getting Sweet at Abaseria

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It all started with a pic... a pic of a square of chocolate cake topped with durian slices. Thanks to an officemate whose hobby is to tempt his fellow officemates' sweet teeth. The following day, the photo of the cake still haunted my officemates and I. And four employees with dangerously large sweet teeth decided to hunt down the cake during lunch break.

The photo that haunted us well into the next day

That square of chocolate cake topped with durian slices can be found in:

32 President Quirino St., Villa Aurora, Kasambagan, Cebu City
(032) 234 4160 / (032) 412 4196 / 0917 328 6219
abaseria@yahoo.com.ph
Daily 9AM to 9PM

Abaseria, I read somewhere, is Spanish for sari-sari (Filipino word for "variety"). Abaseria Deli & Café is not only a deli and café, but also a store that sells delicacies from different Philippine provinces, furniture, home decor, bags, hats, accessories. It's sari-sari alright.

I have been to Abaseria a few times, years ago. They have good food but too expensive for me (if I remember right, it's Php 180 above per dish) and I find their portions too small for the price. Good thing we ate a speedy lunch at the office before this hunt down.

Back to what we came here for: the choco durian special (ah, so that's the name of that square of chocolate cake topped with durian slices). Two of my officemates ordered this. I stuck with plain old homemade chocolate cake because durian isn't really my fruit of choice. Another officemate (remember we were four) got the brazo ala mode. The coffee addict of the four also had a cup of durian coffee.

Clockwise from top left: choco durian special, homemade chocolate cake, durian coffee, brazo ala mode

According to the people who ordered:
Choco durian special — Oh, it's heaven in every bite. (As they say, durian smells like hell but tastes like heaven.)
Homemade chocolate cake — Yum! The cake doesn't crumble and the icing is perfect (not too thin and not too thick). My kind of chocolate cake.
Brazo ala mode — Mmm...mmm...mmm... (next thing you know it's all gone.)
Durian coffee — Wow. I can taste the durian and it's not too strong. Can I have another cup, please?

Because I am a curious eater, I took a bite of each cake. And a sip of the coffee, too. According to me:
Choco durian special — Looks like the homemade chocolate cake cut horizontally in half to make a choco-durian sandwich with durian as filling and topping. Interesting taste, but I think I will stick to my homemade chocolate cake.
Homemade chocolate cake — Yum! The cake doesn't crumble and the icing is perfect (not too thin and not too thick). My kind of chocolate cake.
Brazo ala mode — Surprise! There's ice cream tucked between the meringue and the yema! If only I had extra money and extra tummy space...
Durian coffee — The non–coffee drinker says, "Tastes like coffee to me." Please don't take my word for it.

I took a photo of the desserts section of the menu only because I have no plans of eating real food there :-)

Click to enlarge

I just noticed they have something called "Four Corners". I wonder what that is. Another reason for me to go back?



How having dangerously large sweet teeth can dig a dangerously large hole in the pocket:
Homemade chocolate cake Php 70
Brazo ala mode Php 78
Choco durian special Php 120
Durian coffee Php 75

Casilda's Brazo de Mercedes

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A half roll of brazo de mercedes at Casilda's Bakeshop sells for Php 135. The first time I discovered this was when Casilda's was named Bread and Butter Bakeshop (a half roll then cost Php 110). I am glad that when it turned into Casilda's, they retained their brazo de mercedes and made it even more beautiful, and, yes, just as delectable.

The words of Agnes of Despicable Me sum up my view of Casilda's brazo de mercedes: "It's so fluffy, I'm gonna die!"


Casilda's Bakeshop can be found sprinkled around Cebu (I just don't know how many branches exactly). Here are some of the branches that I know of:
– Gorordo Avenue corner Escario St., Kamputhaw, Cebu City
– MC Briones Street (highway), Mandaue City
– Colon Street, Cebu City





Lunch is a Piece of Triangle

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...or maybe just half a lunch for the big eaters. I am talking about the triangle kimbap. Kimbap is the Korean version of sushi. But this here is triangle shaped, thus triangle kimbap. The place where I found this sells three flavors: kimchi (fried kimchi with tuna oil), tuna (tuna, onion, and mayonnaise), and spicy (pork stir fried in hot pepper paste). I like the spicy one.


Warning! Do not believe the poster. The thickness of their kimbap is just half of what's on the poster. The filling is about a fifth of what's on the poster. Hahaha :-)) But for a quick snack/lunch for Php30, it's not so bad.



These triangle snacks/lunches can be found at the Masitta [0906 479 8000 / (032) 360 4874] booth in J Centre Mall is AS Fortuna, Mandaue City. It's on the upper ground level near LBC and SaveMore Supermarket. It is the only place in Cebu I found that sells triangle kimbap. If you know of other places that has triangle kimbap, please let me know! Thankyouverymuch.

Guest Post: Tunisian Retreats

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Here's Mustachio's first guest post written by Alex Siborn.


If you're thinking about a family getaway this year, why not consider a holiday in Tunisia? As family holidays go, this gorgeous corner of North Africa is alive with so many wonderful family holiday experiences.

Source

For kids, Tunisia's coastline is perfect bucket and spade territory. There is an abundance of soft golden sands and shallow sparkling shores which makes it ideal for little paddling feet. Watch as your kids splash about in the shallows, sink their toes into silky sands for the first time or play happily under the shade of a parasol. Tunisia's coastal regions are well geared up for families and many hotels in the key holiday resorts offer all inclusive accommodation with fantastic on-site facilities.

In the main resorts like Sousse or Port el Kantaoui you'll find plenty of family-friendly activities and child-friendly hotels. Many hotels here are sprawling affairs with a variety of pools, entertainment and on-site restaurants with extensive menus (perfect for little fussy eaters). There are plenty of kids' clubs too, offering a full programme of fun activities, games and sports lessons for children of all ages.

Outside of the hotel you'll find plenty of things to see and do. Soak up the Tunisian culture by visiting the local towns and villages, or try your hand at haggling in a local market. Who knows, you might even come away with a bargain! There are many different watersports on offer, and boat trips are one water-based activity that never fails to keep the whole family entertained. Play at being Jack Sparrow and head out into the Mediterranean on a fun-filled 'pirate ship', or try out the submarine-style boats that take you beneath the waves to explore the Med's stunning underwater world and marine life.

Whatever type of family holiday you're after, Tunisia is a fantastic holiday destination with plenty to see, do and experience for kids of all ages, and for holidaymakers from all walks of life.


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