Mustachioventures

On laundry

Use the hostel's washing machine and/or dryer. It will most likely be cheaper than going to the self-service laundromat around the corner. Note: This tip is applicable in Japan. I am not sure in other countries.

In the middle of my trip in Japan, I needed to do laundry as I had brought just a few clothes. The hostel had one washing machine which could be used by guests for free (just pay for laundry soap for 100 yen), but no dryer. Since I was moving to another city the next day, I needed a dryer. The hostel's washing machine was being used by another guest and I was too impatient to wait. I lugged my bagful of dirty clothes and went to the self-service laundromat nearby. The laundromat was empty and all the buttons and dials on the washing machines and dryers were in Japanese. It took me quite some time to figure out how to use the machines and I also had to pay 300 yen for the washing machine, 100 yen for the laundry soap, and 300 yen for the dryer (100 yen/10 minutes).

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Around the second half of 2017, I heard a safari was in the works somewhere in the mountains of northern Cebu. After many many delays, Cebu Safari and Adventure Park finally opened (on an advance reservation and advance payment basis) in early 2018. Not wanting to get caught and be kept in the safari myself, I put on my Crocodile Hunter disguise and combed my mustache before entering the safari.

After a briefing at the Welcome Pavilion, we stopped to smell the thousands of orchids at Michel's Garden and the flowery serpent-dinosaur-peacock near Michel's Pavilion.

Michel Lhuillier's orchid collection

Serpent-dinosaur-peacock at Michel's Pavilion

From Michel's Pavilion we chose a counter-clockwise direction around the Safari. On our way to the Tiger Turf, we saw peacocks and peahens, and a number of deer and black bucks. The peacocks weren't in a flirtatious mood thus no display of their beautiful tail feathers. I didn't see the Visayan warty pig though it was supposed to be around the area. Maybe I should have just looked in the mirror!

Deer and black buck

In the Tiger Turf, one tiger was playing with a coconut in the pond, and another was licking its lips observing the people observing him. Just kidding. He wasn't hungry, but he sure was staring at us. What I really wanted to see was the white tiger, but he probably knew I was coming and had decided to hide. (The Safari has, if I remember right, a dozen Bengal tigers and one white tiger. Not all of the tigers are let out all at once. If you want to see the white tiger, just ask the Tiger Turf staff for the schedule.)

We then went to say hello to our cousins: a lonely gibbon that was trying to figure out how to cross the moat and shake our hands or grab our bags, a momma orangutan playing with her little one, and a barangay of energetic funky-haired black apes or Celebes macaque.

A gibbon thinking of a way to get across

A black ape sitting down for lunch

Then, aboard a truck, we went around the African Savanna where we saw zebras, blue wildebeests (which were grey-brown, not blue haha!), blesboks, and waterbucks. At the end of the Savanna tour, the guide asked us what we thought of the tour. I couldn't help but cry out: TOO QUICK!!!

Zebras and waterbucks

Blue wildebeests and blesboks

After the disappointingly short Savanna tour, we went to see the Congress of the Philippines: crocodiles. There was one huge croc, just lazing in the shade with its mouth wide open. The rest of the crocs were in the water waiting for a chicken to be dropped (Php 50 per chicken).

Philippine crocodiles

Nearby were two cheetahs, one was sleeping, the other was running around though not in full speed. On our way to lunch at the Safari Outpost, we saw a lonely sulcata tortoise; and two striped hyenas, one was just lying on the grass while the other was acting crazy, going around in small circles as it went in a circle around the area. We also stopped to feed (Php 50 per skewer of fruit) two giraffes called Fred and Lola.

Cheetah

Sulcata tortoise

Striped hyena

I forgot if this is Lola or Fred

While waiting for lunch at the Safari Outpost, we observed the meerkats by the entrance and the white and black swans, pelicans, ducks, geese, and crowned cranes on the south side of the Outpost.

One of many meerkats

Black swans

Crowned crane

After lunch, there were only four areas left to see: Canopy Trail, Macaw Aviary, Animal Trail, and Aviary Dome. Along the Canopy Trail we observed cassowaries. My sister's description of a cassowary? A big bird with the body of an ostrich and the legs of a dinosaur.

Canopy Trail

Cassowary

In the Macaw Aviary, we saw scarlet macaws, and blue and gold macaws. There were pink ones too, but they were in the back of the aviary, staying away from the crowd. Kids were enjoying feeding (Php 40) the scarlet, and blue and gold macaws.

Blue and gold macaw

Emus, llamas, alpacas, and capybaras (the cutest of all) were roaming around the Animal Trail. And in our last stop, Aviary Dome, we saw parrots, red and blue lories, and huge crowned pigeons (the birds in the Aviary Dome can be fed for Php40).

Capybara

Aviary Dome

Victoria crowned pigeon

It took us about five hours to see the area. Cebu Safari and Adventure Park is not yet 100% complete, the Safari Stadium is still under construction, so are the hotel and adventure activities like a zipline. There are some animals that have not been shown to the public yet, like wallabies, kangaroos, camels, and lions. There are air-conditioned and open-air shuttle vans to take guests from from point to point and the walking paths are paved. And kudos to the enthusiastic and well trained staff of Cebu Safari and Adventure Park, we had a pleasant day at the Safari!

Cebu Safari and Adventure Park
Carmen, Cebu
Wednesday to Sunday
8AM to 5PM (last entry at 2PM)
Admission fee Php 800* (includes lunch)
* 50% off for kids 2~3 ft; free for kids below 2 ft.
facebook: @cebusafariph

Directions to Cebu Safari and Adventure Park: From North Bus Terminal, take a bus to Carmen and get off at the junction before Carmen National High School. From there take a habalhabal (motorcycle) to the Safari. (Just recently I saw somewhere along the highway in Carmen a sign advertising vans going to the Safari.)

Sum Guesthouse Jeju Airport
2-2, Seogwang-ro 5-gil, Jeju City 63184 Jeju
+82 7088100106

Rooms. If you are looking for private rooms, then this is not the guesthouse for you. Sum Guesthouse Jeju Airport only has dorm rooms with common toilet-and-shower rooms. There are 4-bed and 8-bed female dorms located on the second floor, and 6-bed and 8-bed male dorms on the third floor. The dorm rooms are clean and not cramped. Each bed has a curtain for privacy, heating pad, lamp, small shelf, and power outlets. There are lockers in the dorm. There is also a clothes rack with hangers. The rooms have airconditioner/heater.

8-bed dorm

6-bed dorm

Toilet and Shower. The toilet and shower are not separate, and there are only two shared by 12 to 16 beds. If both toilet/shower rooms are in use, and you really need to pee, there is a toilet at the ground floor. Since the toilet and shower room is combined, the floor will surely be wet if you use it after someone has just showered. There is a towel rack on which to hang your towel and clothes while you take a shower. Shampoo, soap, and toothpaste are provided. A towel, though only handtowel size (which seems to be the norm in guesthouses/hostels in South Korea), is provided for each guest, and can be exchanged for a new one daily at the reception.

Toilet and shower

Price. Dorm beds start at 16000 won. I booked a bed in Sum Guesthouse Jeju Airport through booking.com

Breakfast. The reception and dining area is on the ground floor. The room rate includes breakfast of cup noodles, toast, jam/butter, coffee, tea, and juice. Breakfast is already available by 630am.

WiFi. WiFi is available all through the guesthouse.

Staff. The staff are friendly but not all of them can speak English, but, during my stay, there was at least one who could understand and speak English.

Security. The front door can be accessed by PINpad and dorm rooms by key. The staff will give you the key and the PIN code, but they'll assume you already know how to use the PINpad.

Laundry. The guesthouse has a washing machine and dryer and you can have your clothes washed and dried for 2000 won. It is not self-service—the staff will do the laundry for you—embarrassing if you need to do wash your underwear too.

Luggage Storage. There is a luggage storage area in the basement. You can leave your luggage there if you arrive early or if you will be leaving hours after check out.

Location. Although the name of this guesthouse is Sum Guesthouse Jeju Airport, it is not right next to Jeju International Airport, but is 2.4 kilometers away and can easily be reached by a 5-minute, 1200- to 2000-won (depending on what type of bus) bus ride (or if you'd rather walk, it's 25 minutes on foot). If you will be taking buses to get around Jeju, then the guesthouse location is perfect—it is just across the Jeju Bus Terminal. If you get hungry, you can buy snacks and boxed meals at nearby convenience stores.

About the photos: Because I forgot to take photos of the guesthouse during my stay, all photos in the blogpost were grabbed from Sum Guesthouse Jeju Airport's booking.com page.

South Korea Spring 2018

Jeju Accommodation: Sum Guesthouse Jeju Airport (you're here!)

Traveling Around Jeju by Bus
(more soon)

When I was preparing for the trip, I could not find enough information in English about bus routes in Jeju. All of the blogs I came across suggested to rent a car or hire a taxi to get around. Since I was traveling alone and on a budget, those were out of the question.

I scoured the internet for days on end and found the Jeju Bus website...in Korean! I was able to get the information I needed (routes, schedules, fares), but it was a lot of work translating the schedules which were in PDF format. (Google translate wasn't perfect, but it was better than nothing.)

Jeju Bus Terminal (Photo from Visit Jeju)

So here's what I found out before and during my trip:

Bus Routes
The buses in Jeju are color and number coded:

Red / Express Bus / Route 1xx– travels between Jeju City and Seogwipo City with only a few stops
Blue / Main Line / Routes 2xx, 3xx– travels between Jeju City and Seogwipo City with many stops
Green / Feeder or Municipal Line / Routes 4xx, 5xx, 6xx, 7xx– covers a small area within a city
Yellow / Tourist Bus / Routes 810, 820– goes to major tourist spots

Bus Fares

Red / Express Bus / Route 1xx

Cash: 3000 won, fixed rate
Transportation Card: 2000 to 3000 won, depending on distance

Blue / Main Line / Routes 2xx, 3xx

Cash: 1200 won, fixed rate
Transportation Card: 1150 won, fixed rate

Green / Feeder Line / Routes 4xx, 5xx, 6xx

Cash: 1200 won, fixed rate
Transportation Card: 1150 won, fixed rate

Green / Municipal Line / Route 7xx

Cash: 1000 won, fixed rate
Transportation Card: 950 won, fixed rate

Yellow / Tourist Bus / Routes 810, 820

Cash: 1200 won, fixed rate
Transportation Card: 1150 won, fixed rate

Payment
You can pay for your fare in cash or by transportation card (such as T-Money). Fares will be cheaper when using a transportation card. You can buy a transportation card and add credits to the card from any convenience store.

Bus Stops
Major bus stops (where many bus lines stop) usually have a digital screen with English translation. The digital screen will show the coming buses and what time the bus will arrive, but will not show the entire schedule. Bus stops where only very few bus lines stop do not have a digital screen. All bus stops have print outs of bus schedules on the wall, but these printouts are in Korean. Inside the bus, there is a digital screen announcing the stops. There is an English translation for stops for tourist sites.

Tips
* If you can read Korean, download the Jeju Bus app.
* If you can't read Korean, use Google Maps to find nearby bus stops and what buses to take.
* If you can't read Korean, but have the patience to use Google translate, you can find the bus schedules for all routes in the Jeju Bus website.
* If you are going to an area visited by few tourists, buses in that area will most likely be infrequent. Research for the schedule ahead (see previous tip) and be conscious of time.

South Korea Spring 2018
Jeju Accommodation: Sum Guesthouse Jeju Airport
Traveling Around Jeju by Bus (you're here!)
(more soon)

Sick of eggs? Consult this doc.

Spotted in SM City in Lipa, Batangas.

For more amusing business names, please visit Go Random.

On pasalubong

Have you, like me, always thought the custom of bringing back a small gift for family and friends when coming back from a trip, whether local or abroad, was a Filipino thing? It turns out we are not the only ones who practice this. The Japanese and Koreans do too. We call it pasalubong, the Japanese call it omiyage, and the Koreans? Well, I am not sure what they call it but...

When Jung-in, my Korean friend, came to visit Cebu, she asked me to take her to the supermarket so she can buy something for her officemates. She says it is expected to bring some local food for colleagues when one comes back from a trip. When she and I went to Jeju, she made it a point to go to Dongmun Market to buy goodies to bring back to her office.

In Japan, there are many, many, many omiyage shops especially in train stations and near tourist sites. These shops sell mostly local specialty food in nice packaging and in different sizes. In Japan, like Korea, one is expected to bring omiyage upon returning to work from a trip. When my Japanese officemate returned from his trip back home, he personally distributed some omiyage in the office.

Do you know of any other cultures that have this custom?

Koreans sure love cafes. Each day I was with my two Korean friends, we went to different cafes to hang out and enjoy the view while sipping a nice warm cup of coffee or a cold glass of fresh orange juice.

Going to Cafe Bomnal and Cafe Aewol Monsant

Cafe Bomnal

2540 Aewol-ri, Aewol-eup, Jeju-si

9AM to 9PM

The first cafe my friends took me to was Cafe Bomnal, a coffee shop by the sea that they said was famous because it was where the Korean drama series "Warm and Cozy" was shot. Cafe Bomnal has four resident corgis and many interesting spots and details to admire and take photos of. The cafe overlooks the sea with sitting areas inside (to take shelter in on cold days) and outside (to enjoy the breeze on warm days).

Directions by bus: From Jeju Intercity Bus Terminal, take bus 202 to 한담동 Handamdong bus stop (50 minutes) and walk about 5 minutes to Cafe Bomnal.

Photo from Jeju Bomnal

View from Cafe Bomnal

Cafe Aewol Monsant

2546 Aewol-ri, Aewol-eup, Jeju-si

9AM to 8PM

We also had a look-see at Cafe Aewol Monsant, another cafe just a few steps from Cafe Bomnal. The dining area is surrounded by glass for an unobstructed view of the sea. It was full when we visited, with most of the cafe goers staying inside to keep warm that cold spring day.

Cafe Aewol Monsant (Photo from Trazy)

The Romantic

476 Gyorae-ri, Jocheon-eup, Jeju-si

10AM to 9PM

JaeHwa, being a photographer, took us to one of the places he frequents to shoot portraits: The Romantic. Understandably, as this cafe has many pretty corners inside and outside, perfect for a photoshoot.

Directions by bus: From Jeju Intercity Bus Terminal, take bus 231 to 교래사거리 Gyorae Sageori bus stop (40 minutes) and walk about 8 minutes to The Romantic.

Cafe Do Doo

342 Seohaean-ro, Jeju-si

10AM to 11PM

Cafe Do Doo is a Simpsons themed cafe with a resident golden retriever named Do Doo. The cafe is decked out in Simpsons art, has Simpsons character masks and a blue Marge wig you can don, and even has some Simpsons stuff for sale. On the second floor, there are four half-bed-half-couches made of wooden pallets facing the road and the sea beyond.

Directions by bus: From Jeju Intercity Bus Terminal, take bus 462 to 대학동 Daehagdong bus stop then transfer to bus 447 and get off at 해안도로 Coastal Road bus stop. Walk about 100 meters to Cafe Do Doo.

View from the wooden pallet half-bed-half-couch we were lazing on

South Korea Spring 2018
Jeju Accommodation: Sum Guesthouse Jeju Airport
Traveling Around Jeju by Bus
Checking out Cafes in Jeju (you're here!)
Location, Location, Location (for a Photoshoot)
(more soon)

Our host, JaeHwa, who is my friend's friend, is a photographer and he brought us to locations where he often shoots portraits and landscapes.

Cafe Bomnal

2540 Aewol-ri, Aewol-eup, Jeju-si

9AM to 9PM

Cafe Bomnal is a famous coffee shop by the sea. Famous because it was the shooting location for the Korean drama series "Warm and Cozy." Drama series or not, I can understand why people flock to Cafe Bomnal. Being by the sea, it is a good place for fresh air, calming hues, and beautiful views. The cafe itself has eye-catching cute and quirky decor.

Directions by bus: From Jeju Intercity Bus Terminal, take bus 202 to 한담동 Handamdong bus stop (50 minutes) and walk about 5 minutes to Cafe Bomnal.

View from Cafe Bomnal

Details

Dangsanbong

당산봉

Gosan-ri, Hangyeong-myeon, Jeju-si

Dangsanbong is part of the Jeju Olle—26 hiking trails that circumnavigate Jeju Island and three of the smaller islands of Jeju. Someday I wish to do some of these hiking trails, but on this visit we just drove to a small parking spot near Dangsanbong and took a short (less than 10 minutes) slightly uphill hike to the viewdeck on Dangsanbong. From the observation deck, we had a sprawling view of the fields and, on the right, a view of Chagwi Island and the setting sun.

Directions by bus: From Jeju Intercity Bus Terminal, take bus 202 to 고산환승정류장 (고산1리) Gosan transfer bus stop (1.5 hours) and walk about 2 kilometers to the viewdeck on Dangsanbong. Important Note: We actually drove to this place and the directions are just based on the foot path visible on Google Maps.

Chagwi Island

Eco Land Theme Park

에코랜드테마파크

1278-169, Beonyeong-ro, Jocheon-eup, Jeju-si

830AM to 6PM (Closes at 5PM on winter)

Admission fee: 14,000 won

To get around Eco Land Theme Park, one has to ride a little train. The train makes four stops. The first stop is the Eco Bridge Station where one can stroll along a 300-meter long boardwalk over water. At the next station, Lake Side Station, there is a garden, a snack bar, a large wooden ship, a bumper boats area, a windmill, and a statue of Don Quixote. The third station, Picnic Garden Station, is a grassy area (walking on the grass is allowed depending on the season; when we visited, the grass was off limits because they were still letting the grass grow) with a playground, a cafe, and a walking trail. The last stop is the Lavender, Green Tea, and Rose Garden Station. Just as the name suggests, this is where one can can see a lavender field, a green tea field, and a rose garden. Unfortunately, it was still early spring when we visited and there were no flowers yet.

Directions by bus: From Jeju Intercity Bus Terminal, take bus 231 to 제주돌문화공원 Jeju Stone Culture Park bus stop (40 minutes) and walk about 5 minutes to Eco Land Theme Park.

Mode of transportation around Eco Land

One of the views at Eco Bridge Station

The boardwalk at Eco Bridge Station

Lake Side Station

Picnic Garden Station

The Romantic

476 Gyorae-ri, Jocheon-eup, Jeju-si

10AM to 9PM

The Romantic is a cafe with many nooks perfect for a photoshoot. One corner takes you back centuries in time with its shelves of leatherbound books, classic sofas, a vintage globe, and an old piano. Another corner is spring all year round with its pots and buckets of flower and plants. And one corner, with its soft bed and two large stuffed teddy bears, will make you want to fall asleep with a smile.

Directions by bus: From Jeju Intercity Bus Terminal, take bus 231 to 교래사거리 Gyorae Sageori bus stop (40 minutes) and walk about 8 minutes to The Romantic.

Saryeoni Forest

사려니숲길

Entrance of Bolgeun Oreum, Gasi-ri, Seogwipo-si

Saryeoni Forest has a 550-meter trail surrounded by tall Japanese cedar trees. This forest seems to be a popular spot for wedding photoshoots. There were four couples the day we visited!

Directions by bus: From Jeju Intercity Bus Terminal, take bus 231 to 붉은오름 Bolgeun Oreum bus stop (45 minutes). Or take bus 212 to 사려니숲길 Saryeoni Forest Road bus stop (30 minutes).

Gwangchigi Beach

광치기해변

Seongsan-eup, Seogwipo-si

Why go to Gwangchigi Beach? For the view of Seongsan Ilchulbong, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Directions by bus: From Jeju Intercity Bus Terminal, take bus 201 to 광치기해변 Gwangchigi Beach bus stop (2 hours).

Seongsan Ilchubong as seen from Gwangchigi Beach

Canola Flower Fields

Goseong-ri, Seongsan-eup, Seogwipo-si
Admission fee: 1,000 won

Because it was the season for canola flowers (end of March), we just had to stop and ~~smell~~ take photos of the golden flowers in one of the canola flower fields near Gwangchigi Beach!

Directions by bus: From Jeju Intercity Bus Terminal, take bus 201 to 광치기해변 Gwangchigi Beach bus stop (2 hours).

Plane Spotting

Seohaean-ro, Yongdamsam-dong, Jeju-si

There is a road on the other side of Jeju International Airport that overlooks the runway. Along that road are benches where people can watch planes land and take off. You don't have to know the arrival schedules—a plane lands every five minutes, I guarantee you!

Directions by bus: From Jeju Intercity Bus Terminal, take bus 462 to 대학동 Daehagdong bus stop then transfer to bus 447 and get off at 용담레포츠공원 Yongdam Leports Park bus stop. Walk about 10 minutes to the benches overlooking the airport runway.

Just a few feet off the ground...and then touchdown!

Jeonnong-ro

Jeonnong-ro, Jeju-si

The one kilometer stretch of Jeonnong-ro is lined with cherry blossom trees and I was lucky to be in Jeju just as cherry blossom season had began. When I visited on March 26, the street was already adorned with lanterns in preparation for the Jeju Cherry Blossom Festival which was happening four days later. At night the lanterns were lit up and so were the trees.

Directions: From Jeju Intercity Bus Terminal, walk about 5 minutes to Jeonnong-ro.

Ready for the Jeju Cherry Blossom Festival

Jeonnong-ro at night

It's a privilege to have someone local show you around and feed you the best local eats. A million thanks to JaeHwa and JungIn!

제주형돈연탄생근고기

+82 64-753-2004

JaeHwa, who lives in Jeju City, took me and JungIn to this restaurant to try 제주흑돼지 Jeju heuk dwaeji, which is pork from a black pig. According to JungIn, who lives in Busan, this type of meat can only be had in Jeju.

We had the 600g serving of heuk dwaeji [54,000 won] and a bowl of kimchi soup [6,000 won]. The pork is cut in pieces and grilled. There are three ways to eat the pork. One is to dip it in the salty anchovy sauce that is heated on the grill. Another is to just dab a bit of salt on the pork. And the third way to eat heuk dwaeji, like samgyupsal and other grilled meat dishes, is to put it on a perilla leaf and add a bit of kimchi, a piece of garlic, a strip of onion. I found the pork tender and juicy but a tad too big to be eaten in one mouthful, which JaeHwa insists is the right way to eat it!

This restaurant is popular with the locals as evidenced by the fully occupied tables when we visited.

Photo by JungIn

낭뜰에 쉼팡

9AM to 9PM

+84 64 784 9292

We came to this restaurant for the bibimbap. JaeHwa recommended the 고기비빔밥gogi bibimbap (with meat) [7,000 won] and that's what we had. Indeed it was delicious! JaeHwa also ordered the
더덕막걸리dodok makgeolli [5,000 won], a local rice wine served in a bowl. I'm not a wine drinker so I can't say much about the dodok makgeolli.

백선횟집

+82 64-751-0033

In this sashimi restaurant, we ate 사시미 sashimi [large 60,000 won] and some kind of fish soup. I am not into sashimi nor any soup with fish in it, so this was one dinner I did not really enjoy (good thing I was still full from the late lunch of gogi bibimbap). But JaeHwa and JungIn loved this and cleaned off the platter of sashimi!

Photo by JungIn

국수마당

+82 64-727-6001

This is one of the meals I especially liked: a bowl of noodles in pork broth called 고기국수 gogi guksu [7,500 won]. I slurped it all—not a morsel nor a drop was left in my bowl! It was so tasty! JaeHwa had the spicy mixed noodles called 비빔국수 bibim guksu [7,500 won]. I didn't try it, but it looks like bibimbap with slices of pork and with noodles instead of rice.

Bibim guksu (left) and gogi guksu (right)

가시식당 2호점

11AM to 9PM

+82 64-722-1035

For our last dinner together, we tried 두루치기 duruchigi [7,000 won per person]. It is stir fried pork with kimchi and mung bean sprouts. The pork was tender and the sauce wasn't too spicy. The quantity was quite big that we could not finish it all.

Three servings of duruchigi

Dongmun Market

동문재래시장

We found tons of oranges, fresh seafood, sashimi ready to be eaten, and delicacies (mostly orange flavored goodies) in Dongmun Market. We tried a plate of 딱새우 shrimp sashimi [10,000 won], some dol hareubang (stone grandfather statue) shaped manju with orange filling (we loved this!), and some sweet seedless hallabong oranges, a specialty in Jeju.

Raw fish and raw shrimp ready for the eating

Oranges!

Dol hareubang shaped manju with orange filling

Heads up! The menu in these restaurants are in Korean! Only 국수마당, the restaurant where we had noodles, had an english translation. Most signs in Dongmun Market were also in Korean.

On my fourth day in Jeju, I was left to my own devices and I went on to explore a bit of the east side of Jeju.

Jeju Folk Village

제주민속촌

830AM to 5PM (Closes 30 minutes to an hour later in spring and summer)

Admission fee: 11,000 won

Audio Guide rental: 2,000 won

Jeju Folk Village is a large open-air museum showing the different kinds of villages (mountain village, fishing village, shaman village, etc) in Jeju in the 1890s. (For K-drama aficionados, Jeju Folk Village was the filming location for Jewel in the Palace.) There were different kinds of houses, complete with tools, earthenware, and even animals (like a donkey, a cow, and a black pig!). There were also exhibition halls for fishing tools, farming tools, local crafts, and earthenware. It was quite interesting to see how Jeju people lived over a hundred years ago. There are three scheduled folk performances but I did not get to see any of them as I was at Jeju Folk Village early (the first performance is scheduled at 1120AM).

Directions by bus: From Jeju Intercity Bus Terminal, take bus 221 to 제주민속촌 Jeju Folk Village bus stop (last stop; 1 hour).

Houses in a mountain village

Taewoo, a raft used for fishing

Jeju black pig

Seopjikoji

섭지코지

107 Seopjikoji-ro, Seogwipo-si

The beautiful coastline of Seopjikoji peninsula starts at the sandy Sinyang Beach 신양 해변 where there are benches to just chill, feel the breeze (or if it's a strong wind, get pelted by sand), and take in the view of Seongsan Ilchulbong in the distance. Following the road into Seopjikoji, the landscape changes into a rocky coastline then to grassy areas and a Canola flower field.

Along the way there is an aquarium called Hanhwa Aqua Planet Jeju 아쿠아플라넷 제주; The Glass House (a building designed by the Japanese architect Tadao Ando), which houses Mint Restaurant and the Zippo Museum; a lighthouse; a building that looks like candy; the remains of an old signaling site called Hyeopja Beacon Fire Station 협자연대; and an art gallery called Yumin Art Nouveau Collection 유민미술관 which is housed in a building called Genius Loci지니어스 로사이 (also designed by Tadao Ando).

Hanhwa Aqua Planet Jeju
아쿠아플라넷 제주
Daily 10AM to 7PM
Admission fees:
40,900 won (19-64 yrs old)
39,200 won (13-18 yrs old, 65 yrs old and above)
37,200 won (3-12 yrs old)

Yumin Art Nouveau Collection
유민미술관
Wednesday to Monday 9AM to 6PM
Admission fee: 12,000 won

It was spring and the walk from the entrance of Seopjikoji down to the southern tip of the peninsula was long but comfortable. The sun was out, but the breeze kept me cool, and the landscape all around kept my eyes busy. I didn't stop by Hanhwa Aqua Planet, but popped into Zippo Museum and checked out the artworks and the humongous artsy Zippo lighter cases. I also went to the lighthouse for sweeping views of the sea and of Seopjikoji. Continuing my hike south, I passed by a poorly maintained and off-limits building that was designed to look like candy, until I reached the Hyeopja Beacon Fire Station, which from afar looks like a small mound of rocks. On my way back, I went to see the Genius Loci building but it was Tuesday, the day when it (and the Yumin Art Gallery within) is closed. Nearby, I spotted a field of canola flowers where I took some photos before hurrying back to the entrance to catch the bus to Seongsan Ilchulbong.

Directions by bus:

From Jeju Intercity Bus Terminal, take bus 201 to 성산포 수협 Sungsanpo Waterworks bus stop (95 minutes) and transfer to bus 295 to 섭지코지 Seopjikoji bus stop (3 minutes) or walk 2.5 km to Seopjikoji entrance. Be aware that bus 295 only comes 10 times a day. If you don't want to transfer, take bus 201 to 신양리입구 Sinyang Entrance bus stop (100 minutes) and walk 1.5 km to Seopjikoji entrance.
From Jeju Folk Village, walk 1 km to 표선환승정류장(표선리사무소) Pyoseon Transit Stop bus stop and take bus 295 to 섭지코지 Seopjikoji bus stop (40 minutes). Be aware that bus 295 only comes 10 times a day. If you miss bus 295, take bus 201 to 신양리입구 Sinyang Entrance bus stop (40 minutes) and walk 1.5 km to Seopjikoji entrance.

A view of Seongsan Ilchulbong from Sinyang Beach at the entrance of Seopjikoji

Changing landscape

The Glass House

Art at the Zippo Museum

The Genius Loci building houses the Yumin Art Gallery

The lighthouse reflected on the Genius Loci building

Canola flower field

Seongsan Ilchulbong

성산일출봉

Summer 710AM to 7PM

Winter 730AM to 6PM

Admission fee: 2,000 won

Seongsan Ilchulbong, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is a 180-meter high volcanic tuff cone. Tuff cones are formed from the interaction between rising magma and bodies of water. Tuff cones are between 100 to 300 meters high and have steep sides and a wide and broad crater at the top. Seongsan Ilchubong's crater is about 600 meters in diameter.

Seongsan Ilchulbong is also called Sunrise Peak, and people who have cars come here early to catch the sunrise. But people like me who can't afford or are too cheap to rent a car won't be able to catch the sunrise if taking a bus. No sunrise, no sunset, I still decided to make it Leg Day by climbing the stairs to the peak. The peak can be reached in 20 minutes, but unfit person that I am, I took many breaks to catch my breath and reached the peak in half an hour. Up top, the bleachers on the viewing deck afforded a view of the grassy crater.

Back down below, I checked out the surrounding area where the Haenyeo (female divers who don't use scuba gear) are (but the performance schedule was already over), and the viewing area where one could see Udo Island in the distance.

Directions by bus:

From Jeju Intercity Bus Terminal, take bus 201 or 211 or 212 to 성산일출봉입구 Seongsan Ilchulbong Entrance bus stop (95 minutes).
From Seopjikoji, take bus 295 to 성산일출봉입구 Seongsan Ilchulbong Entrance bus stop (10 minutes). Be aware that bus 295 only comes 10 times a day.

The stairmaster

On top of Seongsan Ilchulbong

Seongsan Ilchulbong's crater

Views from the top

Down there is where one can watch a haenyeo

The other side of Seongsan Ilchulbong

Udo Island in the distance

Note: Since I was staying in Jeju City, the directions I have provided above start from Jeju Intercity Bus Terminal. If you are staying in Seogwipo City, use Google Maps to find nearby bus stops and what buses to take. If you can read Korean or have the patience to use Google translate (though the translation is not perfect), the Jeju Bus app or the Jeju Bus website is a more accurate option than Google Maps.

In the map below, I have pinned two places that you might also want to stop by: Gwangchigi Beach, for a view of Seongsan Ilchulbong, and the Canola Flower Fields, if you're visiting in spring.

These are the four UNESCO World Heritage Sites in Jeju Island:

Geomun Oreum

거문오름

Geomun Oreum Hiking

Wednesday to Monday 9AM to 1PM

Admission fee: 2,000 won

Reservation required

Jeju World Natural Heritage Center

9AM to 6PM

Admission fee: 3,000 won

Jeju Island has 368 oreums or volcanic cones. Of the 368, two have been designated as World Heritage Sites: Geomun Oreum and Seongsan Ilchulbong. Hiking in Geomun Oreum is a popular activity, and there are three trails to choose from:

Summit Course — 1.8 km / 1 hour / no guide
Crater Course — 5.5 km / 2.5 hours / guide required
Full Course — 10 km / 3.5 hours / guide required

The number of hikers per day is limited to 450 and advance reservation is required.

For those who don't want to hike around Geomun Oreum, the Jeju World Natural Heritage Center offers an indoor museum where one can learn about Jeju Island and its Natural Heritage sites.

Directions by bus: From Jeju Intercity Bus Terminal, take bus 211 or 221 to 거문오름입구 Geomun Oreum bus stop (40 minutes).

Manjanggul Cave

만장굴

9AM to 6PM (Closed 1st Wednesday of every month)

Admission fee: 2,000 won

Geomun Oreum has a lava tube system stretching 36 kilometers and includes about 20 caves, one of which is Manjanggul Cave. Manjanggul Cave is about 7.4 kilometers long but only 1 kilometer is open to the public.

Directions by bus: From Jeju Intercity Bus Terminal, take bus 201 to 김녕리 Gimnyeong-ri bus stop (55 minutes) then transfer to bus 711-1 or 711-2 to 만장굴입구 Manjanggul bus stop (10 minutes).

I did not get to visit Geomun Oreum and Manjanggul Cave, but I did get to hike the other two UNESCO World Heritage Sites:

Seongsan Ilchulbong

성산일출봉

Summer 710AM to 7PM

Winter 730AM to 6PM

Admission fee: 2,000 won

Seongsan Ilchulbong is a 180-meter high volcanic tuff cone. Tuff cones are formed from the interaction between rising magma and bodies of water. Tuff cones are between 100 to 300 meters high and have steep sides and a wide and broad crater at the top. Seongsan Ilchulbong's crater is about 600 meters in diameter. Visitors can go to the top of Seongsan Ilchulbong by huffing and puffing for 20 minutes (at least) on wooden stairs.

Directions by bus: From Jeju Intercity Bus Terminal, take bus 201 or 211 or 212 to 성산일출봉입구 Seongsan Ilchulbong Entrance bus stop (95 minutes).

Aerial view of Seongsan Ilchulbong (Photo from World Natural Heritage Jeju)

The viewdeck at Seongsan Ilchulbong's crater

For those who don't want to climb Seongsan Ilchulbong, but just want to view it from afar. It can be seen from Gwangchigi Beach or from Sinyang Beach (at the entrance of Seopjikoji).

Seongsan Ilchulbong seen from Gwangchigi Beach

Seongsan Ilchulbong seen from Sinyang Beach

Hallasan National Park

한라산국립공원

Hallasan (Halla Mountain), a dormant volcano rising 1950masl, is the highest mountain in South Korea. The above–mentioned sites (oreums and lava tubes) and Jeju Island came about because of this volcano.

There are five hiking trails in Hallasan. All trails are less than 10 kilometers per way and can be hiked in just a day. Only two of the trails go to Dongneung Peak where the Baengnokdam Crater Lake can be seen. No camping is allowed on the mountain and hiking cut-off times for each trail is imposed.

Hallasan Hiking Trails (Photo from Hallasan National Park)

Seokgulam Trail is a 1.5 km trail to Seokgulam Temple.

Trails that reach Dongneung Peak:

Seongpanak Trail — 9.6 km / 4.5 hrs each way
Gwaneumsa Trail — 8.7 km / 5 hrs each way

Trails that go up to Nambyeok Bungijeom (Nambyeok Junction) only; no access to Dongneung Peak:

Donnaeko Trail — 7 km / 3.5 hrs each way
Eorimok Trail — 6.8 km / 3 hrs each way
Yeongsil Trail — 5.8 km / 2.5 hrs each way

One can choose to go up and down the same trail. Or choose to go up Seongpanak Trail and descend via Gwaneumsa Trail, or vice versa. Or up the shorter trail, Yeongsil, then down via Eorimok or Donnaeko, or vice versa.

Directions by bus to Seongpanak: From Jeju Intercity Bus Terminal, take bus 281 to 성판악 Seongpanak bus stop (40 minutes).

Directions by bus to Gwaneumsa: From Jeju Intercity Bus Terminal, take bus 182 to 제주대학교 입구 Jeju National University Entrance bus stop (75 minutes) then transfer to bus 475 to 관음사 등산로입구 Gwaneumsa Mountain Trail Entrance bus stop (15 minutes).

Directions by bus to Donnaeko: From Jeju Intercity Bus Terminal, take bus 181 or 231 or 232 to 중앙로터리 Central Rotary bus stop (90 minutes) and transfer to bus 611 or 612 to 충혼묘지광장 Chungmon Cemetery Square bus stop (25 minutes).

Directions by bus to Eorimok or Yeongsil: From Jeju Intercity Bus Terminal, take bus 240 to 어리목입구 Eorimok Entrance bus stop (40 minutes) or 영실매표소 Yeongsil Ticket Office bus stop (55 minutes).

Eorimok Trail

Yeongsil Trail

South Korea Spring 2018
Jeju Accommodation: Sum Guesthouse Jeju Airport
Traveling Around Jeju by Bus
Checking out Cafes in Jeju
Jeju: Location, Location, Location (for a Photoshoot)
Jeju Eats
History and Nature in East Jeju
UNESCO World Heritage Sites in Jeju (you're here!)
Daegu International Airport to Gyeongju
(more soon)

Did you know there is a direct flight from Cebu to Daegu via T'way Air? I discovered it while I was searching for flights from Jeju to Daegu, which I saw was the nearest airport to Gyeongju, the city I was planning to visit after my five days in Jeju Island. I can't tell you what to see and do in Daegu as I was only passing through.

How did I get from Daegu International Airport to Gyeongju? From the airport, I had to go to the Daegu Complex Transit Center to take a bus to Gyeongju. Daegu Complex Transit Center is where one can take a bus to other provinces in the country. The Transit Center is also connected to Dong Daegu Station where one can take the KTX (Korea's high speed train) to Seoul, Busan, and others, or take the subway to other points in Daegu City.

From Daegu International Airport, go to 대구국제공항건너 Daegu International Airport bus stop across Gonhang-ro (the main road right outside the airport) and take either bus 101 or 401 to 동대구역지하도1 Dongdaegu Station Underpass 1 bus stop. The fare is 1250 won, payable in cash or transportation card (such as T-money).

Across 동대구역지하도1 Dongdaegu Station Underpass 1 bus stop is Dong Daegu Station. Go through Dong Daegu Station and exit on the opposite end, right across will be Daegu Complex Transit Center. Bus tickets can be bought at the third floor. The bus departure bays are on the third and fourth floors. Buses for Seoul, Gyeonggi, Chungcheong, and Jeolla are on the third floor. Buses for Gyeongsang are on the fourth floor. The Transit Center also has convenience stores, restaurants, Shinsegae Department Store, and Alive Aquarium Daegu.

I bought a bus ticket to Gyeongju for 4900 won. The bus ride would take 50 minutes.

South Korea Spring 2018
Jeju Accommodation: Sum Guesthouse Jeju Airport
Traveling Around Jeju by Bus
Checking out Cafes in Jeju
Jeju: Location, Location, Location (for a Photoshoot)
Jeju Eats
History and Nature in East Jeju
UNESCO World Heritage Sites in Jeju
Hiking Hallasan via Yeongsil and Eorimok Trail (soon)
Daegu International Airport to Gyeongju (you're here!)
(more soon)

What was I thinking? Why did I hike Hallasan (Halla Mountain), the highest mountain in South Korea? I was not thinking, that's what! Hahaha!!! I didn't know it was so (the highest mountain), until after I had hiked it.

I woke up early to buy food for breakfast, snacks, and lunch at the nearby convenience store before catching the first bus (bus 240 at 630AM) to Yeongsil Ticket Office of Hallasan. Upon arriving at Yeongsil Ticket Office, I asked for a map then started on my warm up: a 2.5-kilometer uphill walk (on concrete sidewalk) from the Ticket Office to the trailhead. The signs to watch out for snakes and boars every hundred or so meters made me wonder what I would do if I ever encountered one or both of them. I drew a blank. Thankfully, not a snake or a boar stopped for a chat. Nor any car. Many cars zoomed past. One slowed down and looked at me, but did not stop to offer a ride. Maybe he saw I was not Korean and did not know how to offer a ride in English? I would like to think so. Had he offered a ride, I would have gladly accepted it to conserve my energy for the official hike ahead.

Yeongsil Trail (Click to enlarge)

Reaching the stone engraved with "1280masl," I was officially at the trailhead of Yeongsil. The trail began in a wooded area for a few hundred meters, then the "A Grade [Difficult]" section. The "difficult" section did not involve ropes or scrambling, nor was it very steep. The section started to incline with flat stone steps that then later on gave way to seemingly endless wooden stairs through open area (without any trees to provide shade). It was indeed a long climb on stairs and, in some sections, on steps made of rock. But the 360-degree view was so beautiful that I always had an excuse to stop and take a breather.

Yeongsil Trail started off in a wooded area

Last bits of snow at the end of March

Stairway to heaven

It continues on to the ridge

After about 1.5 kilometers of exercising on the StairMaster-with-a-view, the landscape turned into grassland with a boardwalk cutting through and pointing towards the peak of Hallasan. According to the trail map I had seen earlier, there was a potable water source somewhere. But the view made me forget to look for water.

The B Grade [Normal] section of Yeongsil Trail

A rocky path to tread carefully on

The boardwalk branched off to the left and I took the turn and climbed some steps to the viewdeck on Witsejogeun Oreum.

At the Witsejogeun Oreum viewdeck

But this was not the end of Yeongsil Trail. I went back to the boardwalk and continued following the boardwalk to Witseoreum Shelter, carefully walking through snow-covered portions of the path.

To continue or not to continue

There were already many people at Witseoreum Shelter [1700masl], all of whom were sitting around, taking a break, and eating their packed lunches. I did the same. And ravens landed and slowly hopped towards me. I quickly moved away, afraid these black birds would steal my lunch.

After avoiding the ravens and eating my rather dry sandwich, I followed the snow-covered path to Nambyeok Bungijeom (Nambyeok Junction), but a few hundred meters of gingerly walking on slippery snow, I gave up and turned back. (I did not have the proper shoes for such conditions.)

Back at Witseoreum Shelter, I tried to look for someone who had taken the Eorimok Trail to get here so I could ask for the trail conditions. I found one man who had hiked Eorimok that day, but he had very limited English vocabulary and could not say how Eorimok Trail was. I weighed whether to descend the same way I had come—Yeongsil was a beautiful trail and I was now familiar of its condition—or take a chance and go down via Eorimok Trail—it would have a different view, but I had no idea what to expect, would it be a rougher trail (no wooden stairs)? Would it have more snow?

I took the chance and took the Eorimok Trail. It started off easy: a gradual descent on a boardwalk, which went on for 1.5 kilometers, some areas still covered in snow.

Eorimok Trail (Click to enlarge)

C Grade [Easy]

Looking back at the peak of Hallasan

Looking ahead....a long walk to Eorimok trailhead

Ugh, snow

Then the 800-meter B Grade [Normal] section of stony descent. Somewhere in this section, I overtook the two ladies and I didn't see anyone else ahead of me. The two ladies took their time and soon fell back and I was left all alone...not a soul in sight ahead or behind me.

The B Grade [Normal] section of Eorimok Trail

Uneven stones....walk carefully

The last section of my descent via Eorimok Trail was 2.4 kilometers of very uneven stony steps down through the woods. Portions of the path was covered in slippery snow. I had to step carefully while silently praying for safety. I did not want to slip and sprain my ankle as there was no one immediately ahead or behind me. I was ever so slow. One man eventually hurried past me and quickly disappeared down the path and behind the trees, and I was left alone again.

As I reached a bridge, I knew I was almost home free! Almost—because from Eorimok trailhead (970masl) down to the bus stop, it was another 10-minute walk. But an easy-peasy walk along a wood plank sidewalk compared to the rocky and slippery descent I had just been through.

Home free!

It took me five hours up and down Hallasan. I laughed and mentally patted myself on the back for pulling it off without any preparation nor thorough research. Mind, it was a fairly easy hike in that the trail was clear cut and not a technical one. But, it could be hard on a person who hasn't hiked on a mountain for a long time and especially one who has no proper hiking shoes and clothes (I was in jeans, t-shirt, and sneakers).

Important! Cut-off times for hiking (ascending and descending) Hallasan is imposed. The time will depend on the season. Best to start hiking early!

Directions by bus to Eorimok or Yeongsil: From Jeju Intercity Bus Terminal, take bus 240 to 어리목입구 Eorimok Entrance bus stop (40 minutes) or 영실매표소 Yeongsil Ticket Office bus stop (55 minutes).

South Korea Spring 2018
Jeju Accommodation: Sum Guesthouse Jeju Airport
Traveling Around Jeju by Bus
Checking out Cafes in Jeju
Jeju: Location, Location, Location (for a Photoshoot)
Jeju Eats
History and Nature in East Jeju
UNESCO World Heritage Sites in Jeju
Hiking Hallasan via Yeongsil and Eorimok Trails (you're here!)
Daegu International Airport to Gyeongju
Gyeongju Accommodation: Chacharang Guesthouse
(more soon)

Why bother staying a night in Gyeongju? Gyeongju is a very historic city with many UNESCO World Heritage Sites such as Bulguksa Temple, Seokguram Grotto, and Gyeongju Historic Areas. Some sites that are included in the Gyeongju Historic Areas are walking distance from the city center (Royal Tombs, Imhaejeon Palace Site & Anapji Pond, Cheomseongdae Astronomical Observatory, Gyerim Forest, Banwolseong, etc) and other World Heritage Sites are a short bus ride away (Bulguksa Temple, Seokguram Grotto). It is also just 16 kilometers from Yandong Village, another UNESCO World Heritage. For history buffs, a night in Gyeongju would not be enough.

Photo from booking.com

And the best location to stay, in my opinion, would be near the sites and near the bus terminal. So, you know, I could just walk to the sites and to/from the bus terminal when I arrive/leave.

Chacharang Guesthouse is just a 10-minute walk from the Intercity and Express Bus Terminals. It is right next to the Royal Tombs park. Plus there are nearby bus stops (for city buses).

I arrived at Chacharang Guesthouse in the morning, hours before check in time, but the kind, elderly owner immediately let me check in. The guesthouse had many rooms: 6-bed dorms (all-female/all-male) and private rooms (for two, four, and five persons). I stayed in a 6-bed dorm. There were lockers in the room, one for each bed. A bath towel the size of a hand-towel was provided for each guest. The bunk beds didn't have a curtain, nightlight, and dedicated power outlets. But I did see four power outlets in the room. Each room had its own private toilet and shower. Shampoo, soap, and toothpaste were also available.

6-bed dorm

Ensuite toilet and shower

Breakfast of toast, jam, eggs (cook your own), coffee, and tea is available from 830am to 1030am at the dining area on the ground floor. (But when I went down at 730am, the owner was already up and the food was available.)

I guess it was lean season—I only saw two other guests: my roommates who arrived later that night. And, maybe because we were only three guests, most of the lights in the hall and in the reception and dining areas were turned off and these areas were too cold.

On a positive note, the owner was very kind and helpful. He searched for the bus schedule for Yangdong Historic Village when I couldn't find the info. And he also allowed me to leave my luggage at the reception after I checked out and while I visited Yangdong in the morning.

Price:
Dorm beds start at 18,000 won.
Private rooms start at 70,000 won.
Book Chacharang Guesthouse through booking.com

South Korea Spring 2018
Jeju Accommodation: Sum Guesthouse Jeju Airport
Traveling Around Jeju by Bus
Checking out Cafes in Jeju
Jeju: Location, Location, Location (for a Photoshoot)
Jeju Eats
History and Nature in East Jeju
UNESCO World Heritage Sites in Jeju
Hiking Hallasan via Yeongsil and Eorimok Trails
Daegu International Airport to Gyeongju
Gyeongju Accommodation: Chacharang Guesthouse (you're here!)
(more soon)

The Gyeongju Historic Areas, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is a group of five areas in Gyeongju:

Mount Namsan Belt
As the name suggests, this area is on and immediately around a mountain called Namsan. It includes ruins of 122 temples, 53 stone statues, 64 pagodas and 16 stone lanterns. The Namsan Mountain Fortress, Poseokjeong Pavilion site, and Seochulji Pond are also within this area.

Wolseong Belt
The palace site of Wolseong is an expansive area which includes the Gyerim Forest, Imhaejeon Palace and Anapji Pond, and the Cheomseongdae Observatory.

Gyerim Forest

Imhaejeon Palace site and Anapji Pond

Cheomseongdae Observatory

Tumuli Park Belt
The Tumuli Park Belt includes three groups of Royal Tombs. Most of the tombs are mounds, like small hills, but some are half-moon or gourd-shaped. The tombs contain (aside from coffins) gold, glass, and ceramics.

Royal tombs

More royal tombs

Hwangnyongsa Belt
This includes two Buddhist temples: Bunhwangsa Temple (whatever is left of it) and Hwangnyongsa Temple site. Hwangnyongsa was the largest temple ever built in Korea.

Sanseong Fortress Belt
This area includes the Myeonghwal Sanseong Fortress.

These areas are huge and I was only able to visit some of the sites included in the Wolseong Belt and Tumuli Park Belt.

South Korea Spring 2018
Jeju Accommodation: Sum Guesthouse Jeju Airport
Traveling Around Jeju by Bus
Checking out Cafes in Jeju
Jeju: Location, Location, Location (for a Photoshoot)
Jeju Eats
History and Nature in East Jeju
UNESCO World Heritage Sites in Jeju
Hiking Hallasan via Yeongsil and Eorimok Trails
Daegu International Airport to Gyeongju
Gyeongju Accommodation: Chacharang Guesthouse
UNESCO World Heritage: Gyeongju Historic Areas (you're here!)
(more soon)

As soon as I had dumped my bags in Chacharang Guesthouse, I went out to explore the historic sites of Gyeongju City. Right next door was the northern portion of the Royal Tombs Park and that's where I started. This is the Noseo-dong area of the park where six tombs in different sizes are found. Five are shaped like hills, and one is shaped like a half moon. Among the items excavated from the half moon shaped tomb was a small gold crown. This tomb is believed to be that of a younger member of the royal family.

South of the Noseo-dong Tombs Park is the Daerungwon Tombs Park. This area has four large tombs. The largest tomb in this area is the Hwangnamdaechong Tomb, which contains two tombs, believed to enshrine a royal couple. About 11,500 items were discovered in a tomb called Cheonmachong Tomb. Cheonmachong Tomb can be entered with an admission fee of 2000 won. But, as luck would have it, it was under restoration work at the time of my visit. Another tomb in Daerungwon is the tomb of King Michu, the 13th king ruler of the Silla Kingdom. Every year there is a commemoration held by his descendants.

These tombs are believed to have been built between the 5th and 6th century for the royal families of the Silla Dynasty, one of the three kingdoms that ruled Korea. These tombs are included in the Tumuli Park Belt of the Gyeongju Historic Areas UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Daerungwon Tombs Park

Further south are sites included in the Wolseong Belt of the Gyeongju Historic Areas UNESCO World Heritage Site. One is Cheomseongdae, the oldest astronomical observatory in East Asia.

Cheomseongdae

Another world heritage is the Gyerim Forest, said to be the birthplace of Kim Al-ji, the founder of the Gyeongju Kim clan. According to the Samguk Yusa (Memorabilia of the Three Kingdoms), King Talhae heard a cock crow in the forest. He sent Chencellor Hogong into the forest to investigate where Hogong saw a golden box hanging from the branch of a tree. Hogong informed the King and the King instructed him to bring the golden box to the king. In the box, the king found a male child whom he named Kim Al-ji.

Gyerim Forest

East of Cheomseongdae and Gyerim Forest is the Donggung Palace and Wolji Pond (also called Imahejeon Palace and Anapji Pond respectively). Donggung Palace was one of the main palaces of the Silla Kingdom and many important events were held here. In this area are three restored buildings and a large pond. According to the Samguk Sagi (History of the Three Kingdoms), "a large pond was excavated at the palace, flowers planted, and rare birds and strange animals raised."

Map of Donggung Palace and Wolji Pond

A diorama of Donggung Palace

Artefacts on display in one of the restored buildings

A roof tile to ward off evil spirits

I have been told that it is best to visit Cheomseongdae and Donggung Palace and Wolji Pond at night, when these sites are illuminated. It is free to enter Cheomseongdae, and 2000 won to enter Donggung Palace and Wolji Pond. The 2000 won admission fee for Donggung Palace and Wolji Pond is for one-time entry; once you exit, you need to buy another admission ticket to enter again.

Not having fully recovered and reenergized from the 5-hour hike up and down Hallasan yesterday, my visits to Cheomseongdae and Donggung Palace and Wolji Pond were in the daytime only.

Other places I visited while walking around Gyeongju City were the Gyochon Traditional Village and the Woljeonggyo Bridge.

Gyochon Traditional Village is a cluster of hanok houses. Some of these houses have been converted into shops offering traditional experiences, others are still used as residences.

Gyochon Traditional Village

There is one historic house built in 1779, the premises of which is open to the public (the house though can't be entered). This is the House of "Rich Man" Choi, head of the Gyeongju Choi clan. It is a National Cultural Property. According to the information board at the gate of the house, the Choi family "was widely admired by the local community, not just for their thoughtful management of their enormous wealth for twelve generations, but also for their ethical approach to life and their practice of noblesse oblige."

House of "Rich Man" Choi

In Gyochon Traditional Village, I had late lunch at a famous eatery called 교리김밥 Gyori Gimbap. There were only two things on the menu: noodles (5000 won) and gimbap (7000 won, 2 rolls). I loved the noodles and slurped to the last drop. The gimbap was also very good and had a lot of eggs, but two rolls was too much for one person! There is usually a long line at Gyori Gimbap so it is best to go early or late.

Gyori Gimbap

Gimbap and noodles

On the southeast end of Gyochon Village is the Woljeonggyo Bridge. At the time of my visit (March 2018), one could enter the bridge but could not exit at the other end as it was still undergoing restoration.

Woljeonggyo Bridge

Gyeongju is very historic and there are many more sites included in the Gyeongju Historic Areas I could not cover on foot. Other UNESCO World Heritage Sites that are just a bus ride away are Bulguksa Temple and Seokguram Grotto, and Gyeongju Yangdong Historic Village.

South Korea Spring 2018
Jeju Accommodation: Sum Guesthouse Jeju Airport
Traveling Around Jeju by Bus
Checking out Cafes in Jeju
Jeju: Location, Location, Location (for a Photoshoot)
Jeju Eats
History and Nature in East Jeju
UNESCO World Heritage Sites in Jeju
Hiking Hallasan via Yeongsil and Eorimok Trails
Daegu International Airport to Gyeongju
Gyeongju Accommodation: Chacharang Guesthouse
UNESCO World Heritage: Gyeongju Historic Areas
Walking Around Gyeongju (you're here!)
(more soon)

How's your drink?

Spotted in SM Mall of Asia.

For more amusing business names, please visit Go Random.

I visited Yangdong Village, which is South Korea's largest traditional village, with 160 houses, 54 of which are over 200 years old. It is also one of the two villages included in the UNESCO World Heritage Site called Historic Villages of Korea (the other one is Hahoe Village in Andong). Both villages were founded in the 14th to 15th centuries. The villages are sheltered by mountains and face out onto a river and open agricultural fields. In the villages are residences of the head families, timber framed houses of clan members, pavilions, study halls, Confucian academies for learning, and one storey mud-walled, thatched-roofed houses, formerly for commoners.

At the entrance of the village is a museum (free admission) where one can learn about the history of the village, its clans, and the existing buildings that have been designated as cultural heritage properties.

A diorama of Yangdong Village

A miniature model of one of the important residences in the village

I checked out the 22 cultural heritage properties by walking around the village and visiting each (I was given a map when I paid for the admission fee). The hunt for these properties was a workout for these houses were almost always on higher ground, some with steep roads.

Gwangajeong, means "to see the harvest," named such because it was located where one had a view of the plain and river in the distance. It was built around 1500 by a Confucian scholar-official of the Joseon Dynasty.

Hyangdan

Hyangdan was built in 1543 at the order of King Jungjong for Yi Eon-jeok, the governor of Gyeongsan Province.

Mucheomdang is a detached building of the head family house of Yi Eon-jeok. The wooden-floored center hall is used for ancestral rites and to receive guests.

If I got lost, this directional post would be of no help to me.

Seobaekdang is the head family house of the Son clan, built in 1459. The 7-meter tall juniper tree in Seobaekdang has branches spreading 12 meters in diameter, and is about 600 years old!

Yangdong Village is very quiet and peaceful. (And there were less than ten visitors that day.) People still live in the village and I was careful to follow the map and not trespass on private property. The houses and school buildings in the village that have been designated as important cultural properties can be viewed from the outside, but cannot be entered.

Gyeongju Yangdong Village
경주 양동마을
Daily 9AM to 6PM
Admission fee 4000 won

Directions to Gyeongju Yangdong Village: At Gyeongju Intercity Bus Terminal, take bus 203 to 양동마을입구 Yangdong Village Entrance bus stop (1300 won cash/1250 won transportation card, 35 minutes). Bus 203 is the only bus that goes direct to the village, it is important to note the bus schedule. If you miss bus 203, you can take bus 206 then get off at 양동마을 Yangdong Village bus stop and walk about 750 meters (8 minutes) to Yangdong Village.

Bus 203 Schedule
Gyeongju Intercity Bus Terminal to Yangdong: 915AM, 1030AM, 1210PM, 130PM, 330PM, 450PM
Yangdong to Gyeongju Intercity Bus Terminal: 1035AM, 1155AM, 135PM, 255PM, 455PM, 625PM

South Korea Spring 2018
Jeju Accommodation: Sum Guesthouse Jeju Airport
Traveling Around Jeju by Bus
Checking out Cafes in Jeju
Jeju: Location, Location, Location (for a Photoshoot)
Jeju Eats
History and Nature in East Jeju
UNESCO World Heritage Sites in Jeju
Hiking Hallasan via Yeongsil and Eorimok Trails
Daegu International Airport to Gyeongju
Gyeongju Accommodation: Chacharang Guesthouse
UNESCO World Heritage: Gyeongju Historic Areas
Walking Around Gyeongju
UNESCO World Heritage: Gyeongju Yangdong Historic Village (you're here!)
(more soon)

I don't know if I considered myself lucky or unlucky. Lucky that the cherry blossoms were already blooming when I was in South Korea? Or unlucky that the only day I could squeeze in a visit to Jinhae was a Saturday which turned out to be the day before the first day of the Jinhae Cherry Blossom Festival? There was a ton of people and it was definitely an "expectation versus reality" experience!

Yeojwacheon Stream

It was a beautiful burst of flowers running about 1.5 kilometers alongside Yeojwacheon Stream. Some sections of the stream below were decorated with swans, deer, arches with hearts; and above were fairy lights, stars, and colorful umbrellas. On the road running parallel to the stream food stalls were set up, and there were people selling cherry blossom related and pink stuff. There was even a guy dressed up as Spiderman selling cherry blossom crowns. (Many of the female visitors were wearing these crowns!) It was quite crowded at the southern end (near Jinhae Station) of the stream. The blooms became thinner towards the northern end, and so did the crowds.

Would you buy a cherry blossom crown from Spiderman?

Gyeonghwa Station

The attraction at Gyeonghwa Station was the cherry-blossom-canopied train. If it was crowded at Yeojwacheon Stream, it was a whole other level at Gyeonghwa Station!!! The queue to have a photo in front of the train was so long and the crowd around the front of the train so thick, it would have been a nightmare for enochlophobic people!

So many people!

Directions to Jinhae from Busan: Take the subway to Sasang Station. From Sasang Station, walk to Busan Seobu Intercity Bus Terminal. And from the bus terminal, take a bus to Jinhae (5100 won, 1 hour). There are buses to Jinhae every 15-20 minutes from 6AM to 9PM.

Directions from Yeojwacheon Stream to Gyeonghwa Station: Take bus 317 to Gyeonghwa Station bus stop (1300 won cash / 1250 won transportation card).

Directions from Gyeonghwa Station to Jinhae Bus Terminal: Take bus 307 to 남원로타리 Namwon Rotary bus stop and walk to Jinhae Bus Terminal (1300 won cash / 1250 won transportation card).

South Korea Spring 2018
Jeju Accommodation: Sum Guesthouse Jeju Airport
Traveling Around Jeju by Bus
Checking out Cafes in Jeju
Jeju: Location, Location, Location (for a Photoshoot)
Jeju Eats
History and Nature in East Jeju
UNESCO World Heritage Sites in Jeju
Hiking Hallasan via Yeongsil and Eorimok Trails
Daegu International Airport to Gyeongju
Gyeongju Accommodation: Chacharang Guesthouse
UNESCO World Heritage: Gyeongju Historic Areas
Walking Around Gyeongju
UNESCO World Heritage: Gyeongju Yangdong Historic Village
Joining the Cherry Blossom Loving Crowds in Jinhae (you're here!)
(more soon)

Wisdom from the Road #63

Free Upgrade on GPSmyCity

Cebu Safari and Adventure Park

Jeju Accommodation: Sum Guesthouse Jeju Airport

Traveling Around Jeju by Bus

What's in a (Business) Name? Setenta y tres

Wisdom from the Road #64

Checking out Cafes in Jeju

Jeju: Location, Location, Location (for a Photoshoot)

Jeju Eats

History and Nature in East Jeju

UNESCO World Heritage Sites in Jeju

Daegu International Airport to Gyeongju

Hiking Hallasan via Yeongsil and Eorimok Trails

Gyeongju Accommodation: Chacharang Guesthouse

UNESCO World Heritage: Gyeongju Historic Areas

Walking Around Gyeongju

What's in a (Business) Name? Setenta y cuatro

UNESCO World Heritage: Gyeongju Yangdong Historic Village

Joining the Cherry Blossom Loving Crowds in Jinhae