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Wisdom from the Road #37

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On music
Music invokes memories.

There are songs that remind us of significant moments in life. And then there are songs that draw up vivid pictures of insignificant and uninteresting moments.


Whenever I hear David Guetta's Just One Last Time I am reminded of the time my friends and I docked at a secluded patch of beach in El Nido. As the boatmen were grilling the fish for lunch, this was blaring from a friend's portable speaker, and I was sitting on the sand while my friends were in the water dancing like we were in a club and not the beach.


Adam Levine's Lost Stars brings me back to the time we were speeding along Busan's highway. My two Korean friends had taken the time to show me around their city and sometime during the drive, they had switched their music from Korean songs to English songs. When Lost Stars played they asked if I had seen Begin Again and they were incredulous when I answered in the negative.


The yellow walls of Orange Pekoe Guesthouse close in on me whenever I hear James Bay's Hold Back the River. This song was playing as we were talking to the receptionist on our last day there.

The song's message did not relate to me at that time nor to the situation I was in, but it was what was playing at that moment. And whenever I hear those songs playing on the radio, at the mall, in a coffee shop, these vivid pictures of ordinary moments run through my mind and I find myself smiling.


For more lessons from the road, please visit Go Learn.

What's in a (Business) Name? Cincuenta

Wisdom From the Road #38

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On footwear
Check your footwear/flipflops before leaving home.

I slip on my flipflops (slippers) without thinking. Always.

Walking home one afternoon from a weekend trip out of town, the strap of my left slipper broke. I called home to check if anyone could bring me another pair since I was just less than a kilometer away. Nobody was home. I ended up walking on the sun-warmed road with one foot bare.

New pair of slippers. Months pass. New pair becomes old. I was in J Centre Mall to run some errands. I went to the third floor and that's where the strap of my left slipper snapped (left one again—my left foot must be too fat or something). I had to drag my foot with my toes desperately holding on to the slipper all the way to the ground floor where the supermarket was and where I knew rubber slippers were sold. Once I got through the glass door of the supermarket, I took off my slippers and walked barefoot on the cold tiled floor to the slippers section.

I still slip on my flipflops without thinking. When I remember these two incidents, that's when I remember to check my footwear. Sometimes a little too late.


For more lessons from the road, please visit Go Learn.

Recharge, Refresh, Refuel in Dumaguete

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Warming the backseat of a car for four hours straight can be boring and draining, what more for 7 to 8 hours. And what more if you're the driver! So on our road trip to Sipalay City, Negros Occidental (and vice versa) we welcomed the idea of staying a night in Dumaguete City, Negros Oriental.

This was so we could...

Recharge

By sleeping at Hotel Nicanor.

On the first night, we stayed in the Family Room (Php 2100) which had two single beds and one king size bed. The room was spacious, the toilet and bath just right. On the way back to Cebu, we stayed in their Executive Deluxe Room (Php 2200). It had two king size beds. The Executive Deluxe Room was smaller than the Family Room, but the toilet and bath was huge (and it had a tub).

Hotel Nicanor was a good choice for recharging ourselves. Clean. Quiet. Room air conditioning freezing—but the blankets were thick enough to keep warm. The curtains, when drawn, kept the room dark making us want to sleep all day...which one of our friends almost did—he slept for 15 hours straight! Plus Hotel Nicanor was just walking distance from the places where we could refresh and refuel.

San Jose Street
(035) 421 0787
Rooms from Php 1050 to Php 2600

Family Room


Refresh

By walking along Rizal Boulevard.

A stroll along the boulevard at the start of the day (with an awesome view of the sunrise!) or on a breezy late afternoon or on a cool moonlit night is a good way to reset the mind (and get a bit of exercise too).

I admit I did not do any of these because I was too comfortable under the blanket in the cold and dark hotel room that I missed the sunrise or I was too busy eating that I became too lazy to take a stroll along the boulevard.

Stroll along Rizal Boulevard

Watch the sunrise (Photo by D. Cañete)


Refuel

By going on a food trip. A visit to Dumaguete City is not complete without having some good grub!

53 Silliman Avenue
(035) 421 2392
Daily 8AM to 930PM

Kri Restaurant was full when we went for dinner and we had to wait for a few minutes to get a table. It took me quite a bit of time to decide on what to eat: everything on the menu sounds so good.

Each of us chose a different dish and we tried each other's food. Everything was superb! I especially liked General Tso's Chicken, Thai Basil Chicken, and Burschettas de Gambas (not in photo). Heads up though: the price on the menu does not include the 12% VAT.


 Kri Restaurant's Menu (Click to enlarge)


San Jose Street corner Rizal Boulevard
(035) 421 0338
Sunday to Thursday 10AM to 11PM
Friday and Saturday 10AM to 12MN
*Breakfast is served daily from 7AM to 10AM

3 San Jose Street
(035) 225 4440 / 422 9482
Daily 9AM to 7PM

Ground Floor Robinsons Mall
Lamberto Macias Road corner Calindagan Road
(035) 421 1524

We had breakfast at the al fresco area of Sans Rival Bistro along Rizal Boulevard (breakfast is served from 7AM to 10AM). My friends chose this place because of the ambiance and because of the unlimited coffee that comes with their breakfast meals. I wanted cake for breakfast but they don't serve cakes and pastries until 10AM.

Their original branch, just behind the Bistro, opens at 9AM. While I was having breakfast at Cafe Mamia, I spied a bunch of people waiting outside Sans Rival. This is how famous they have become that people line up even before they open just to buy silvanas (Php 140 per box) for pasalubong.

Sans Rival Bistro


Sans Rival Bistro's Breakfast Menu (Click to enlarge)


Paseo Perdices, Rizal Boulevard
(035) 522 3219
Daily 8AM to 10PM

Florentina Homes, Rovira Road, Brgy Bantayan
(035) 422 0827
Daily 7AM to 11PM

Another place I like to eat at when in Dumaguete is Gabby's Bistro. They recently opened a second branch in Paseo Perdices along Rizal Boulevard, just next to Sans Rival Bistro—good for me because this is way closer to Hotel Nicanor than their original branch in Florentina Homes.

Gabby's Bistro at Paseo Perdices was packed on a Saturday night and we had to wait a bit before we could get a table and before I could get my hands on Pollo ala Marsala (chicken). My mouth was watering while waiting for my dinner. And when it finally came, my eyes watered in disappointment—I found it overly fried and the sauce too little. I should have gotten the Pork Marsala which my friend swears is really good.



14 San Jose Street corner Sta Catalina Street
(035) 422 2664
Daily 630AM to 11PM

Another place we had breakfast at was Cafe Mamia, a simple cafe just a stone's throw from Hotel Nicanor. We loved Cafe Mamia's huge bowl of Arroz Caldo and size-just-right Spanish Chorizo meal (but if you have a big appetite the spanish chorizo meal might not be enough). Cafe Mamia is affordable and cheaper than Sans Rival Bistro.

I heard their sisig is really good too. I shall try that next time I find myself having lunch or dinner in Dumaguete (I think sisig for breakfast would be too weird).


 Cafe Mamia's Menu (Click to enlarge)


I had no time to go to City Burger or CB Grill and no space in the stomach for their chicken inasal. Yes, I can get chicken inasal just about anywhere, but I miss City Burger's finger lickin' chicken inasal! Oh well. Next time.

Thank you Dumaguete City for being our recharging and refueling station! Now time to resume our journey...



Road to Sipalay
Recharge, Refresh, Refuel in Dumaguete (you're here!)
How to Go to Sipalay City, Negros Occidental
Accommodations in Langub Beach, Sipalay

How to Go to Sipalay City, Negros Occidental

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Click to enlarge

From Cebu City, Cebu
Go to the South Bus Terminal and take the one and only direct bus to Sipalay at 5AM. (The return trip from Sipalay to Cebu is at 5PM.)

If you miss this bus, you can opt to go to Dumaguete City in Negros Oriental or Bacolod City in Negros Occidental. You can do this by air (Cebu Pacific flies direct from Cebu to both cities, and Philippine Airlines flies direct from Cebu to Bacolod) or by land and sea.

To go to Bacolod City by land and sea, at the North Bus Terminal take a Ceres bus bound for Bacolod. There are four routes:
  • Cebu - Toledo - San Carlos - Don Salvador - Bacolod
  • Cebu - Toledo - San Carlos - Canlaon - Bacolod
  • Cebu - Toledo - San Carlos - Escalante - Bacolod
  • Cebu - Tabuelan - Escalante - Bacolod

To go to Dumaguete City by land and sea, at the South Bus Terminal take a Ceres bus bound for any of these three:
  • Dumaguete.
  • Bato, Samboan. Then take the ferry from Bato to Tampi, Amlan, Negros Oriental. From Tampi, take a bus going to Dumaguete.
  • Lilo-an, Santander. Then take the fastcraft to Sibulan, Negros Oriental. From Sibulan, take a jeepney to Dumaguete. If you miss the direct bus from Cebu to Dumaguete, this is the next best option.

To go to Dumaguete City by sea, take a ship (Cokaliong Shipping Lines) direct from Cebu to Dumaguete.

For information on schedules and fares, contact:
For bus: Vallacar Transit (Cebu), better known as Ceres Liner (032) 345 8650
For fastcraft to Sibulan: Cuadro Alas Navigation Lines 0922 423 2400 / 0922 985 8234
For ferry to Tampi or Sibulan: Maayo Shipping 0917 710 7080
For ship to Dumaguete: Cokaliong Shipping Lines (032) 232 7211 to 18


From Bacolod City, Negros Occidental
  • Take a direct bus to Sipalay (4-5 hours).
For information on schedules and fares, contact Vallacar Transit (Bacolod) at (034) 446 0861.


From Dumaguete City, Negros Oriental
  • Take a direct bus to Sipalay at 1PM (4 hours).
  • Or take three buses to get to Sipalay:
    • Dumaguete to Bayawan (2.5 hours)
    • Bayawan to Hinoba-an (1.5 hours)
    • at Hinoba-an take a bus bound for Bacolod, and get off at Sipalay (45 mins)
For information on schedules and fares, contact Vallacar Transit (Dumaguete), better known as Ceres Liner at (035) 225 9030 / 225 0406.



Road to Sipalay
Recharge, Refresh, Refuel in Dumaguete
How to Go to Sipalay City, Negros Occidental (you're here!)
Accommodations in Langub Beach, Sipalay

Accommodations in Langub Beach, Sipalay

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After an overnight stop at Dumaguete City, 3.5 hours on the road, and a short pumpboat ride (Php 300 for 6 pax), we reached Langub Beach (better known as Sugar Beach) in Sipalay City.

The kilometer–long cream–colored sands (salt and pepper color upon close inspection) of Langub Beach brings out the lazy in me. Although there are other activities such as scuba diving, stand up paddleboarding, island hopping, kayaking, and exploring (there is a langub or cave a few minutes walk from the beach, thus the name Langub Beach), I chose to do the lazy: Sleep, swim, eat, wait for sunset. Repeat.

My feet sinks in this sand

But it wasn't all laziness. One morning, I peeled my butt off the hammock and walked the kilometer–long beach. It was a difficult walk...the sand would swallow my feet with each step. But I trudged on just to gather contact information of all the resorts for your benefit!


When facing the beach, these are the resorts from the leftmost end down to the last resort along the stretch.

Langub Beach Resort
0999 880 6610
AC Room for 4 pax Php 1500
Fan Room for 8 pax Php 2500
AC Room with kitchen for 12 pax Php 6500
Extra pax for fan room Php 150/head
Extra pax for AC room Php 200/head

Langub Beach Resort

Sulu Sunset Beach Resort
0919 716 7182
mail@sulusunset.com
All fan rooms
Rooms start at Php 650

Buenaventura Beach Resort
0947 328 2771 / 0939 927 1210
Fan Rooms start at Php 390
AC Rooms start at Php 1390
Note: Buenaventura Beach Resort is about 50 meters farther behind the beachfront resorts.

Big Bam Boo Beach Resort
0999 671 6666 / 0908 454 4600
bigbamboobeachresort@gmail.com
AC rooms Php 1500 (low season) / Php 1700 (high season)
Fan rooms start at Php 500 (low season) / Php 700 (high season)
Dorm beds (fan) at Php 300 (low season) / Php 400 (high season)

Big Bam Boo Beach Resort

Driftwood Village
0920 900 3663 / 0919 236 7055
driftwoodvillage@mail.com
All fan rooms


Green Garden Beach Resort
0946 677 9302
Family Cottage for 4 pax Php 2500 (one bedroom is AC, the other fan)
AC Room for 2 pax Php 1200
Fan Room for 2 pax Php 800


Family Cottage for 4 pax at Green Garden Beach Resort

Tawhay
0921 611 2039
All fan rooms
Room for 2 pax Php 900 to 1000
Room for 4 pax Php 1200

Didai's Garden Resort
0939 624 8350
AC Room for 2 pax Php 1600
Fan Room for 4 pax Php 2100
Experience: We stayed in the fan room—a huge cottage—with its own toilet and bath (but the door to the toilet and bath was just a curtain!). There is WiFi for a fee of Php 100 for the entire duration of stay (I noticed this is the norm in all resorts in Langub Beach). Meals at Didai's Garden Resort are cooked by Didai's son, Edison, and I could say he's a really good cook!

Fan room for 4 at Didai's Garden Resort

Bermuda Beach Resort
0920 529 2582 / 0919 591 3805
Rooms start at Php 1050
Memory: This is where we stayed in 2008 (back then there were only five resorts in Langub Beach) and there are two things I remember: the boat–shaped bed and the geckos in the room. The geckos scared us (nobody wants a gecko stuck on himself!).

Takatuka Lodge
0920 230 9174 / 0920 679 2349 /0915 628 3516
relax@takatuka-lodge.com
Rooms start at Php 1275
Experience: A colorful and artsy resort with decors made from recycled materials. On our first visit in 2008, we often had our meals here. On our recent visit (2016), we wanted to eat here but was turned away (they prioritize in–house guests)....rudely.



After the walk, it was back to being lazy again. Swim, eat, wait for sunset, sleep. Repeat.

Swim in its crystal clear waters 

Watch the great ball of fire

Three days of this lazy cycle wasn't enough. We wanted to stay one more day. All resorts were fully booked but it wasn't crowded at all and this is what we loved about Langub Beach.



Road to Sipalay
Recharge, Refresh, Refuel in Dumaguete
How to Go to Sipalay City, Negros Occidental
Accommodations in Langub Beach, Sipalay (you're here!)

Samboan Action Verbs

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Sitting. Going to Samboan from Cebu City involves sitting on a bus for 4 hours. At South Bus Terminal, take a bus bound for Bato via Barili (Php 168, non AC).

Sleeping. We wanted to stay near the town center but, according to the habalhabal driver [Dario 0943 252 4136] we hired to take us around Samboan, there was only one and it was full. We stayed at Villa Isabella instead, a lodging house by the beach, about a kilometer from the town center (Php 10 for habalhabal or Php 7 for tricycle ride from the town center).

Ponong, Brgy. Poblacion
0999 530 2603
Php 1500 AC room for 5 pax
Php 1000 AC room for 2 pax


AC room for 5 persons

Swimming. You're staying at the beach, why not go for a swim? The beach at Villa Isabella is not of fine white sand but of broken pieces of corals.

Strolling. Start at the Boluntaryo Monument (World War II Volunteers Monument), that little green kiosk with a man on the roof along the highway where habalhabal drivers converge. Go up the road to the Samboan Museum (closed on weekends), town plaza, St Michael Archangel Church (built in 1842), Campanario de Antigua (watchtower), and then go down the Escala de Jacob (Jacob's Ladder, a 147-step stairway built in 1878 to make it easier for the people living along the coastal area to go to the church).

Samboan Plaza, Campanario de Antigua, St Michael Archangel Church

Snorkeling. Colase Marine Sanctuary, located just two barangays short of the next town of Santander, is a nice little underwater world of corals and fish just a few kicks and paddles from the highway. It was very near the shore, thus shallow, that I had to be careful to keep afloat to avoid stepping on or hitting the corals. The lifevest I rented kept me afloat but I had to steer myself with one hand because the other hand had to hold the lifevest in place (the lifevest's cords were broken). Once past the shallow area, I enjoyed spying on the lionfish, clown fish, and a long thin fish that I don't know the name of. 

Colase Marine Sanctuary
Brgy. Colase
Snorkeling Fee Php 100
Snorkel and mask rental Php 20
Lifevest rental Php 20

By the way, highway 

Finding Nemo

Sweating. The jump off point for Dau Falls is a 15–minute motorcycle ride from the highway. Sweating would start from the highway if you attempted to walk from there. If you don't, don't pump your fist in triumph, from the jump off you're still 30 to 45 minutes away by foot and for sure your shirt won't be as fresh before you reach Dau Falls. A guide is assigned to each group whether you ask for one or not (there is no guide fee, it is up to you to give them a tip). And you would be grateful for that. The way is long and easy, but there are no directional signs. We crossed a bamboo bridge, got our feet wet in streams, climbed a short ladder, stuck our bodies close to rock walls, and climbed so many steps before we reached the dam–looking Dau Falls. The basin of Dau Falls is shallow and there is only a small portion deep enough to jump in.

Dau Falls
Brgy. Suba
Entrance Fee Php 20



Scrambling. The jump off point for Aguinid Falls is less than a hundred meters from the highway. Before we reached the registration area, we passed by eateries and shops selling souvenirs, waterproof pouches, swimming attires. At the registration area we paid the entrance fee and our group of four was assigned two guides, one of whom gave a briefing before we commenced the trek. The trek started off easy for the first ten minutes or so, and then the challenge appeared in the form of a huge, daunting rock with water constantly flowing over it: Level 2 of Aguinid Falls. Those wearing slippers were asked to go barefoot while those wearing trekking sandals were given the go signal to follow the guide all the way to the top. I thought it would be a slippery and difficult climb, but it wasn't, thanks to the handholds/footholds carved on the rock and to the guides for orchestrating our arm and leg movement. Five seconds of scrambling over the rock and we were already soaked. At the third level, we had to scramble up a head-high rock, again with the help of handholds.  Past that, the rest of the way to Level 5 was easy peasy.

Aguinid Falls
Brgy. Tangbo
Entrance Fee Php 20

Tips:
  • Go to Aguinid Falls early, before the crowds stir up the silt and the waters all the way down to Level 1 become cloudy.
  • Bring as few things as possible and put it in a waterproof bag.
  • Listen to your guide.

2nd Level of Aguinid Falls 

5th Level of Aguinid Falls

Soaking. Soaking our feet in the shallow pool at the fifth level of Aguinid Falls. In truth, we were feeding the fish with our dirty feet and dry skin. The fish happily gnawed my toes and heels while I tried to keep a straight face (it tickles!).

Shivering. The jump off point for Hidden Falls is not so hidden, it is just by the highway. From the jump off point, it is an easy 15-minute walk to the waterfall. We were once again assigned a guide though the way was so easy, we could have found the waterfall ourselves. But I guess it's protocol and a way for the locals to earn extra income. We reached a small waterfall, climbed some steps, made a U-turn and found Hidden Falls...a bit crowded. Because the basin is small. Nevertheless, we dipped in Hidden Falls' freezing water and joined the shivering crowd.

Hidden Falls (aka Triple Drop/Binalayan Falls)
Brgy. Bonbon
Entrance Fee Php 20

A beautiful gem of a waterfall...except for the vandalized rock walls :(

Staring. Weren't we told that staring is rude? But not when you're staring at something as beautiful as a sunset. Especially in this part of Cebu, the west side, the perfect place to watch the sun dip below the horizon. Or in this case, behind the mountains of Negros island.


Spending. Nothing is free.
Bus from Cebu to Colase, Samboan Php 170
Snorkeling fee Php 100
Lifevest rental Php 20
Mask and snorkel rental Php 20
Bus from Colase to Poblacion Php 8
Room in Villa Isabella Php 1500
Meals, average of Php 80 per meal
Habalhabal for the three waterfalls Php 500/2 pax
Dau Falls entrance fee Php 20
Aguinid Falls entrance fee Php 20
Hidden Falls entrance fee Php 20
Tips for the three guides
Bus from Poblacion, Samboan to Cebu Php 168 (non AC)

Bohol Local Hot Cold Spots

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Canawa Cold Spring
Brgy. Canawa, Candijay, Bohol
Adults Php 10
Children Php 5
Cottage Php 100
Toilets/Changing Rooms available

We drove over rough roads to Canawa Cold Spring for a look-see. When we reached Canawa Cold Spring there was a group of teens having a grand time getting to higher ground and then jumping into the water. Again and again.

The aquamarine water was a temptress. It tugged at my shorts but I had to restrain myself from tearing 'em off and jumping in—my companions stressed that we would just stay for a few minutes because our main destination was still an hour away: Badiang Spring.

Canawa Cold Spring


Brgy. Anas, Valencia, Bohol
Adults Php 30
Children Php 10
Cottages start at Php 60
Shower Rooms/Toilets/Changing Rooms available
Rooms start at Php 1200

It was past noon when we reached Badiang Spring and almost all of the cottages were taken. We found a vacant cottage and hurriedly arranged our containers of food and dug in. After having lunch, I forgot my mother's age old advice not to swim right after eating. We jumped into the big people's pool...which wasn't for me and my friend, the weak swimmers. The big people's pool at its shallowest was 6 feet deep! We transferred to the kids' pool...which was too shallow and swarming with kids (and hopefully not saturated with their pee). After a few minutes of being with the wild kids, I decided to go back to the big people's pool which was bigger, colder, and with less people.

The big people's pool 

The kids' pool

These two cold springs in Bohol are so hot, locals flock here to cool down.



Bohol Bound
Bohol Local Hot Cold Spots (you're here!)
The Usual Bohol Land Tour (soon)
Tagbilaran Heritage Walking Tour (soon)
Abatan River Firefly Watching Tour (soon)
Dumaluan Beach (soon)
Dolphin Watching and Island Hopping (Balicasag Island and Virgin Island) (soon)

What's in a (Business) Name? Cincuenta y uno

Wisdom from the Road #39

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On drying laundry at night
Laundry dries faster in an air conditioned room
than out in the humid night air.

If you're into science then you would say: Of course. Obviously. But woe to me, poor in science. Science only became interesting after this discovery.


For more lessons from the road, please visit Go Learn.

The Usual Bohol Land Tour

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Meeting my officemate's father on the same day that I was to drive off in their car was kind of embarrassing. I expected her father to put me through a driving test before releasing me and their car to the roads of Bohol. But he didn't, and I drove off slowly until I was out of his field of vision. Once out of sight, I floored it. Just kidding. I was a careful driver on unfamiliar territory and we cruised along Bohol's concrete roads at a leisurely speed. From Carmen to Tagbilaran, we made stops at the usual Bohol tourist spots.

Carmen
Chocolate Hills Complex
Entrance Fee Php 50

There are three viewing decks for Chocolate Hills that I know of: Sagbayan Peak in Sagbayan, Chocolate Hills Adventure Park (CHAP) in Carmen, and Chocolate Hills Complex, which is also in Carmen. Since Sagbayan town was out of the way, we went to Chocolate Hills Complex, the classic viewing area.

214 steps up the slope of one chocolate hill offered a view of the thousands of hills...had the viewdeck not been destroyed by the 2013 earthquake. Two years and five months after the quake, the viewdeck was still not fully repaired. The ongoing repair cut our sweeping 360-degree view to maybe 225 degrees. Nonetheless, the hills that dot the landscape as far as the eye could see was still a wonder to behold.

This is the best view I could get at the viewdeck

The view from the parking area

Bilar
Man-made Forest

I have been along this route three times before and every time we drove through this area, it gave me a feeling of peace. But we never stopped to smell the mahogany trees. This time, being the driver, I drove slowly along the 2-kilometer winding road and, spotting a clearing, stepped on the brakes and had everyone spill out of the car for deep breaths and a few snaps.


Loboc
Tarsier Conservation Area
Entrance Fee Php 60

Next up was to say hello to the tiny primates residing in the Tarsier Conservation Area in Loboc. (I wanted to visit The Philippine Tarsier and Wildlife Sanctuary, also known as Tarsier Research and Development Center, in the town of Corella, but my officemate suggested we go to the Tarsier Conservation Area in Loboc as the latter was on the way.)

From the entrance of the Tarsier Conservation Area, we quietly followed the concrete path and steps while opening our eyes as wide as a tarsier's in order to spot these tiny creatures. I opened my eyes as wide as I could, but I still found it difficult to spot these little balls of fur. I just went where there were three or four people gazing at the same point up a tree. As we stared at the tarsier, it stared back at us with its big round eyes.

The tarsier, as small as they are, are not to be underestimated:
  • Tarsiers require a lot of space. By a lot, I mean one hectare per tarsier.
  • The tarsier can leap a distance of up to 5 meters.
  • The tarsier can rotate its head almost 360 degrees.
There are three things to remember when visiting these tiny primates:
  • Tarsiers hate noise so shut your trap.
  • Tarsiers don't like being touched so keep your hands to yourself.
  • Tarsiers hate paparazzi so no flash photography.
All these give them stress and they don't take stress easily. When they can't take it anymore, they will commit suicide.


Sevilla
Hanging Bridge
Entrance Fee Php 20

From Loboc we drove along the highway and made a right to find the hanging bridge in the town of Sevilla. We slowly and bouncily walked across the bridge and, on the other side of the river, found fresh buko peeled by the Buko King himself (peeled with his teeth!), cabcab (cassava crackers, Php 25 per pack), bananacue, and souvenirs being sold.


Baclayon
Baclayon Church and Museum
Museum Entrance Fee Php 60

Before reaching Tagbilaran City, we made a stop at the Church of Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception, also known as Baclayon Church. Made up of coral stones "glued" together with egg whites, the church was completed in 1727. This centuries-old church, unfortunately, crumbled during the 2013 earthquake. During our visit (February 2016), the church was still undergoing repairs. We didn't go in the museum, but was told it houses religious items.

Tagbilaran
Blood Compact Site

The Sandugo or Blood Compact Site is just along the highway but I missed this spot and had to drive back a hundred or so meters. The Sandugo commemorates the blood compact (a custom at that time to draw a few drops of blood from each party and mix it with wine, and each would drink from the cup) performed by the Spanish explorer Miguel López de Legazpi and the chieftain of Bohol Rajah Sikatuna to seal their friendship. The sculpture depicting this March 16, 1565 event is by the Boholano Napoleon Abueva, a Philippine National Artist.









Bohol Bound
The Usual Bohol Land Tour (you're here!)
Dolphin Watching and Island Hopping (Balicasag Island and Virgin Island) (soon)

Tagbilaran Heritage Walk

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Our 2.5-hour walking tour started at the Human Nature shop. Nothing significant here. Just that this is also where Dagohoy World Travel, the travel agency that came up with this heritage walking tour, is. We were given a straw hat and a short introduction about Tagbilaran, then off we went donning our straw hats.

Our first stop was outside the gate of Holy Spirit School. Through the grate we gazed at the white building that is said to have been built in 1929 and served as a dormitory. The building looked like a place ghosts would find very comfortable. Too bad we could only look at them through the grate, and them at us through the window.

Holy Spirit School

Next stop was an old house where the owner still resides (though we did not get to meet her). Only about a fourth of the house is still used as a residence, the rest had been converted into commercial/office space.


After the house visit, each of us was given a plastic of coins (amounting to Php 8) with a printout of three sentences in Visayan. I found it quite amusing and concluded right away that this walking tour was designed for foreigners.

For our mini group of four, we had to hail two tricycles. I noticed that tricycles in Tagbilaran are small and can only carry two passengers in the cab and one behind the driver. Another thing I noticed about tricycles in Tagbilaran is that each one had a Bible verse painted on the back of the tricycle. Without it, explained the guide, they would not be granted a permit to operate.


The tricycle driver dropped us off in front of St Joseph Cathedral. I thanked him and sheepishly grinned as I gave him my plastic of coins. We went to the side of the church where we lit a candle of our chosen color (each color has a meaning) and said a silent prayer. (The guide paid for the candles.)

St Joseph Cathedral

We then crossed the street to Rizal Park, disturbed the pigeons, then crossed another street on the other side of the park to snap a photo of the Bohol Provincial Capitol, which was under repair. Then on to the next building, the Bohol National Museum.

Rizal Park

Bohol Provincial Capitol

A visit to the Bohol National Museum is not part of the tour but we told the guide we wanted to go inside. (It was sweltering hot and the air-conditioned interiors of the museum beckoned.) We were ready to pay Php 10 each for the entrance fee, but the guide said she'd pay for it (thank you!). We took our time in the small museum and, with our boiling brains, tried to learn a little bit about Bohol. There were some archaeological finds, a stuffed monkey, a stuffed tarsier, an explanation of how the chocolate hills formed, paintings of local heroes, and a section about ube (purple yam). Of all the things in the museum, what struck me the most was about the beliefs in planting ube. Maybe I was just hungry.

Skulls and paintings inside the National Museum

And just in time, for our next stop was Jojie's Painitang Bol-anon for some local delicacies (yehey! snacks are included in the tour!). We were given a cold bottle of calamansi juice and a plate of dinumugan, cuchinta, biko ube, balanghoy, and nilubid (cassava, ube, chocolate). I've had cuchinta and balanghoy before (and biko, but the regular kind), but the other three were new to me. I liked the biko ube and the nilubid.

Snack time

After the snack break we moved on to the Carlos P Garcia Heritage House (and on the way, we passed some old houses). Carlos P Garcia was the Philippines' 8th President, succeeding Ramon Magsaysay when the latter died in a plane crash. Garcia was born in Talibon, Bohol to parents who were natives of Bangued, Abra. The house in Tagbilaran was built in 1953 and was where Garcia lived after his failed re-election bid.

Old houses

Carlos P Garcia Heritage House

The final stop and the grand finale to this heritage walk was the Casa Rocha, a bahay na bato (stone house) built in 1831. What caught my eye upon entering the house was the domed ceiling of the living room. Other than that, it was the squeaky floor and the heavy wooden door. The wood planks used for flooring tells of how rich the owners were (the wider the plank, the richer the family). The roof was made of tiles. This house would have been a sight to see had it been well maintained.

Casa Rocha

For Php 700 per person was this walk worth it? I thought it was too expensive, the houses visited too few, and the scorching sun too torturous. But that's just me, my thrifty pocket, and my sunburned self.

To book the Tagbilaran Heritage Walk contact Dagohoy World Travel through the following:
ecotours@dagohoyworldtravel.com
0917 896 0486


Bohol Bound
Tagbilaran Heritage Walk (you're here!)
Dolphin Watching and Island Hopping (Balicasag Island and Virgin Island) (soon)

Abatan River Firefly Watching Tour

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A River Life Smoke Guy pranced around us carrying burning coconut husks, readying us as sacrifice to the river crocs. Just kidding. It was to ward away the evil...mosquitoes, before we get fed to the crocs.

After getting smoked, our assigned River Life Guide made us wear lifevests before giving a lightning quick lesson on how to use a paddle. A few strokes of the paddle through the air then we were ready.

We gingerly got on our tandem kayaks lest we get fed to the crocs unceremoniously. I was the boss that night and let the guide do all the talking and rowing while I lay back and tried to see the moon and the fireflies through the gloom (I have very poor night vision and all the while I wondered how the guide could see through the murk).

I expected to see fireflies everywhere but, the guide explained, fireflies only flock to specific types of trees. So the guide slowly rowed to the firefly–magnet trees dotting the river while he explained about the area and how fireflies are indicators of a healthy and clean environment.

My very poor night vision haha

It was a nice night for lazily floating about while looking at live little Christmas lights fluttering around trees (fireflies were the inspiration for Christmas light, so my guide said). But then the hour was soon up and we had to go back to the dock. I rolled on the dock in one piece. No scratches, no croc bites, no mosquito bites. Just a little soaked on the butt and a memory of darkness and a thousand flickering lights.

0908 873 8304

Entrance fee Php 50

Boat Tour
630PM / 730PM / 830 PM
3 to 5 pax: Php 600 per person
6 to 10 pax: Php 500 per person

Kayak Tour
Any time after 630PM
Single kayak Php 350
Tandem kayak Php 500
Guide Php 300



Bohol Bound
Abatan River Firefly Watching Tour (you're here!)
Dolphin Watching and Island Hopping (Balicasag Island and Virgin Island) (soon)

Panglao Island's Dumaluan Beach

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The moment I stepped on Dumaluan Beach's soft white shore and saw its clear blue waters, I immediately wanted to come back. Maybe the perfect weather added to its allure. Maybe—surely—the absence of crowds dispelled my not so fantastic impression of Panglao, particularly and mainly because of Alona Beach, the only beach I ignorantly knew in the handful of times I have been to Panglao. So, I thank my friend for taking me to this postcard pretty part of Panglao Island.

Dumaluan Beach


I haven't left, but I already miss it. For my future and yours, I did not let the searing sun bother me as I happily let my feet sink in the sand and walked along the stretch of beach to take note of the resorts found along it:

South Palms Resort Panglao (038) 502 8288 / 0917 716 7609
Bohol Beach Club (038) 502 9222 / 0927 452 7054 / 0999 992 1880 / 0923 250 7828
Dumaluan Beach Resort II (038) 502 9092 / 0917 883 4888
Whites & Greens Beach Resort (038) 502 9433 / 0908 958 6878
Dubay Panglao Beachfront Resort 0917 841 3637
Bolod Beach Resort (038) 502 4046 / 0920 603 9927 / 0915 682 3187
PJ Prime Beach Resort 0939 258 7408 / 0936 223 9240
Dumaluan Beach Resort I (see below)

Fan Room at Dumaluan Beach Resort I

Dumaluan Beach Resort I price list

If you have high standards, choose either South Palms Resort Panglao or Bohol Beach Club, the high-end resorts on Dumaluan Beach. If your standards are not that high but you are not as as cheap as I, then you have four choices: Dumaluan Beach Resort IIWhites & Greens Beach Resort, Dubay Panglao Beachfront Resort, and Bolod Beach Resort. Cheapos like myself, looking to spend less than Php 500 a night per person for a two-person room, can go for Dumaluan Beach Resort I. Their 850-peso fan room was all right by me. As long as I have a bed to sleep in and a bathroom, I am good. It was the beach itself, that all these resorts shared, that mattered to me.

I will be back Dumaluan Beach!



Bohol Bound
Panglao Island's Dumaluan Beach (you're here!)
Dolphin Watching and Island Hopping (Balicasag Island and Virgin Island) (soon)

Balicasag Island and Virgin Island

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We woke up before the crack of dawn and by the time we were ready and waiting by the shore for the pumpboat to show up, the sun was just slowly rising, quietly telling me it's going to be a good day.

It's going to be a good day

We sailed a little after six, but before heading to Balicasag Island we veered in the opposite direction to search for dolphins. We saw not just two, but a pod. They put up an awesome show for us, with one happily doing vertical spins as it moved farther and farther away. If they were happy to see us, we were ecstatic to see them.



After an hour of zigzagging across the sea to get a closer look at the dolphins showing off, we headed to Balicasag Island. There are three snorkeling areas around Balicasag Island: fish sanctuary, sea turtle sanctuary, and the giant clams area. I was dismayed to know that they charged Php 250 per person per sanctuary (too expensive!)...and that doesn't include the snorkel and mask rental (Php 150)! We decided to just check out the giant clams and the sea turtles.

Balicasag Island

We boarded a small paddle boat and the guide steered our little vessel toward the sea turtle sanctuary. When the guide spotted a pawikan (sea turtle), we all jumped in. I swam around looking for them. In the 30 minutes we were there, I saw about four sea turtles. Then, with difficulty, we hoisted ourselves on the little boat and rowed toward the giant clams area. There we paid little attention to the few giant clams and busied ourselves with the fish.



When the fish didn't want to be fed bread anymore, we again struggled to heave ourselves onto the paddle boat then rowed ashore to board our pumpboat to go to Virgin Island, a sandbar swarming with tourists. We allowed ourselves only a quarter of an hour to explore the sandbar for we had to head back soon to checkout of Dumaluan Beach Resort I.

Virgin Island

Dolphin Watching, Balicasag Island, Virgin Island Tour
Php 2000
Boat Capacity: 10 passengers
Jojo 0918 710 3016


Bohol Bound
Dolphin Watching and Island Hopping (Balicasag Island and Virgin Island) (you're here!)

Explore Georgetown in Penang

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Malaysia's Pulau Penang (Penang Island) lies about 350 kilometers northwest of its capital, Kuala Lumpur. The island is home to Georgetown, one of the two World Heritage Cities in Malaysia as declared by UNESCO (the other one being Melaka, 148 kilometers southeast of Kuala Lumpur).


Go
From Kuala Lumpur, there are three ways to get to Pulau Penang:
  • By bus. It takes 5 hours by bus from Pudu Sentral (Puduraya) Bus Station in Kuala Lumpur to Sungai Nebong Bus Station in Pulau Penang. Fare is about RM40.
  • By train and ferry. It takes 2.5 hours by high-speed train from Kuala Lumpur to Butterworth Station (train fare is about RM60) on the mainland. From the mainland, it takes 15 minutes by ferry (RM1.20) to the island of Penang.
  • By plane. There are numerous flights daily between Kuala Lumpur and Pulau Penang. One way fare starts at RM60. From the airport to the city centre, it costs about RM45 for a taxi (get a taxi through the taxi counter at the airport); about RM25 for Uber.

Sleep
There are many accommodations in Georgetown, but we chose to stay in Ryokan Muntri Boutique Hostel. A dorm bed costs RM30 to RM50 depending on the type of room (plus local government tax of RM1/bed/night); private rooms for two persons start at RM 118 (plus local government tax of RM2/room/night). We booked beds in the Loft Room (RM50/bed), which has its own toilet and shower; other dorm rooms have a shared toilet and shower. Room rates already include breakfast of noodles, eggs, sausages, mashed potatoes, paratha, coffee, tea.

62 Muntri Street, 10200 Georgetown, Penang
(Zoom in on the map below and find the yellow pin)
Tel: (+604) 250 0287
Email: enquiries@ryokanmuntri.com

Ryokan Muntri Boutique Hostel

Common area (left) and the Loft dorm room (right)


Eat
One of the things we look forward to whenever we are in Malaysia is the food! Here are the places we ate at (and recommend) in Georgetown (see red pins on map below):
  • Red Garden Food Paradise - Indeed a food paradise (hawker centre) that will make you go crazy with the plethora of choices.
  • Esplanade Park Food Court - Another hawker centre with a lot of food choices.
  • Gurney Drive Hawker Centre - And another hawker centre...but this is a bit far from the city center. To go to Gurney Drive Hawker Centre, one has to take a taxi (or Uber—cheaper than a taxi).
  • Restoran Nasi Padang Minang - A self-service eatery that offers a wide array of food that I don't know the names of but are absolutely mouthwatering.

Left to right: Red Garden Food Paradise, Gurney Drive Hawker Centre,
and the overwhelming spread at Restoran Nasi Padang Minang

  • Wai Kei Cafe - Try their char siu (roasted pork) rice.
  • Wan Tan Mee - Try their wan tan mee (wanton noodle soup).
  • Passion Heart - Try their lemon poppyseed cake a la mode.
  • China House - Try all their cakes! (And check out the art space on the second floor, too!)

Left to right: Char siu at Wai Kei Cafe, lemon poppy seed cake a la mode from Passion Heart,
and the cake spread at China House

  • Teochew Chendul Stall - A famous roadside stall selling cendol or chendol or chendul, however you want to spell it. What is cendol? Cendol is to Malaysia as halo-halo is to the Philippines.
  • Lok lok Stall - Pick any of the skewered stuff on display, place it in the boiling pot to cook, and once cooked, put some sauce on it and enjoy. Don't throw away the sticks, the stall owner will let you know your total bill by counting the sticks (the sticks are color coded; price is from RM0.60 to RM1.80 per stick). This stall is across the street from Wan Tan Mee. 

Cendol from Teochew Chendul Stall (left) and the Lok lok Stall (right)

I noticed that most of the eateries in Georgetown do not allow you to bring drinks from outside (not even water), thus you have two choices: take a drink after you leave the eatery or hawker centre, or buy from the drink sellers (except for the cafes, drink sellers are usually separate from the food sellers).


Admire
Art
Go on a treasure hunt (by walking or by renting a bike for about RM20/day) around Georgetown for street art and wrought-iron caricatures. Don't just snap photos of the 52 wrought-iron installations scattered around the city, read it. The installations have anecdotes about the street they are installed in. You can download the Street Art Map from the Tourism Penang website or get a copy from your hotel/hostel.

Wrought-iron caricatures

Street art everywhere (Photo by CM Adlawan)

Architecture
I don't know anything about architecture but I do know a pretty (and colorful) building when I see one.


Aside from admiring buildings from the outside, you can admire them two from the inside (see blue pins on map below):
  • Cheong Fatt Tze (The Blue Mansion) - There are daily English guided tours at 11AM / 2PM / 330PM. Admission fee is RM17. Since the Blue Mansion is currently a hotel, the tour is limited to just the main house and does not include the two side wings. Nevertheless, I recommend joining this tour to hear the interesting story behind the mansion's owner.
  • Pinang Peranakan Mansion - Tours should be booked ahead through email rmhbaba@gmail.com or through their facebook page. Tours can be conducted any time between 930AM to 5PM, with an admission fee of RM20.
Cheong Fatt Tze


Visit
Take a break from walking under the heat of the sun by cooling yourself inside these museums (see green pins on map below).
  • The Camera Museum - A treat for photography enthusiasts! I was most fascinated with the Pinhole Room and the Obscura Room. The Camera Museum is open daily from 930AM to 630PM. Admission fee is RM20. Guided tours are available every hour from 10AM to 6PM.
  • Upside Down Museum - Defy gravity and don't forget to bring your camera! The Upside Down Museum is open daily from 845AM to 630PM (730PM on weekends). Admission fee is RM27.
  • Penang State Museum and Art Gallery - Get a glimpse of the old Penang by visiting the Penang State Museum, a museum filled with artifacts, photographs, and paintings. The Penang State Museum and Art Gallery is open from 9AM to 5PM Saturday to Thursday. Admission fee is RM1 only.
  • Chocolate Museum - The Chocolate Museum is open from 9AM to 6PM daily. Admission is free. Of course, because the museum, which is a little room that tells you how chocolate is made, will eventually lead you to the Chocolate Shop where you can taste almost all of the products for free and would be too tempted (or too embarrassed!) to leave without buying anything.
Left to right: Cameras on display at the Camera Museum,
defying gravity at the Upside Down Museum, and a display in the Penang State Museum


There are many other places to see in Georgetown, but those listed above are what we could squeeze in (except for the Pinang Peranakan Mansion which we had skipped) in our leisurely three-day stay.

What's in a (Business) Name? Cincuenta y dos

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Where can you get alcohol? At the Alcohall, of course.
Spotted in Ducado Avenue, Davao City

For more amusing business names, please visit Go Random.

Wisdom from the Road #40

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On staring
It is rude.
Except maybe if you're staring at an inanimate object.

We all know that staring is rude. I was reminded of this while snorkeling in Gilutungan Marine Sanctuary. I saw a fat titan triggerfish, maybe 20 inches long, with bulging eyes, languidly swimming in the bottom of the sea, some 30 feet deep. It was the biggest fish in the area and I was fascinated by it. I stared at it from above, followed it around.

You know how you can sometimes feel when someone is staring at you? The fish probably felt my eyes drill a hole on its back that it turned around, glared at me with its bulging eyes, bared its Mater-like (but sharper!) teeth, and angrily darted straight for me. Thrice. After its third attack, I got to my senses and swam away as fast as I could (which is not fast at all).

Yes, sir, do not stare. It is rude. Even the fish thinks so.

Photo of a titan triggerfish by Enric Sala/National Geographic

Gilutungan Marine Sanctuary is one of the destinations when island hopping from Mactan. Snorkeling fee for Gilutungan is Php 100 per person. Other island hopping destinations (see green pins on map below) are:
  • Nalusuan Island and Marine Sanctuary (Php 200)
  • Caohagan Island (Php 200)
  • Sulpa Islet (Php 100)
  • Talima Marine Sanctuary (Php 50)
  • Pandanon Island (Php 150)
Island hopping trips usually cover just two or three destinations and the price would depend on the size of the boat and the destinations (starts at Php 2500; the bigger the boat or the farther the destination, the more expensive). Agree with the boat operator before embarking on the trip!

Boats for island hopping can be rented in Cordova Wharf, Maribago Wharf, or Punta Engaño Port (see red pins on map), or arranged through companies like Islands Banca Cruises and Fun & Sun (see yellow pins on map)—these two companies give great service (comes with the price!). There are other local tour operators that offer a higher level of service than just picking a boat docked at the wharf but are not as expensive as the two mentioned tour companies. One I would recommend is Sunrise Island Hopping (jump off point is in Cordova Wharf), a local tour operator based in Cordova. For Php 550/person (minimum of 10 persons), you can island hop to three spots without the hassle of preparing food—lunch is already included (book ahead because they need to prepare the food)!


PS. A little bit or research told me that it wasn't my staring at the triggerfish, but my invasion (unknowingly!) of its territory, which extends like a funnel from its nest up to the surface of the water, that made it go berserk. But this doesn't mean that staring isn't rude. It still is. Remember that.

Photo from FishiLeaks


For more lessons from the road, please visit Go Learn.

Suroy Surigao City

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Heading to Surigao City. Cut across any of these three to get to Surigao City:

Sky. There are daily flights to Surigao City from Manila (via Philippine Airlines) and from Cebu (via Cebu Pacific).

Sea. From Maasin (Southern Leyte) or from Cebu, cross the sea via Cokaliong Shipping Lines. From Liloan (Southern Leyte), take the FastCat to Lipata, Surigao City. From San Ricardo (Southern Leyte), take Montenegro Shipping Lines to Lipata, Surigao City.

Soil. There are buses to Surigao City direct from Butuan and Davao. Vans also ply between neighboring cities (such as from Tandag City in Surigao del Sur) to Surigao City.

Tourist bunks in Cokaliong's M/V Filipinas Maasin

History in the Heart of the City. You know you're in the heart of a city in the Philippines when you find the City Hall with a park or plaza nearby.

Surigao City Hall. Every city hall must have the country's flag flying outside. But there is only one city hall that has a marker reminding every passerby that on this site on December 26, 1898 was where the Philippine flag was first raised in Mindanao.

Luneta Park. Like Manila, Surigao City’s Luneta Park also has a statue of Dr Jose Rizal. Unlike Manila, Surigao City's Luneta Park has a colorful giant boot, a tourist assistance office, and the Battle of Surigao Strait Museum. The giant boot, according to MindaNews, houses a generator to power the nearby city hall, police headquarters, fire department, and public market during power outages; and a siren that goes off on a daily schedule and during emergencies. (I peeked and saw dust and junk. Maybe the generator was under all that junk.) The boot, according to the lady in the tourism office, was created in honor of Imelda Marcos who had donated the land and that the other boot, the left one, is in Tacloban. (To anyone who has spotted the left boot in Tacloban, please send me a photo!)

The giant boot at Luneta Park
Photo by Brennan Mercado of Baktin Corporation

Hungry in the City. These are the three things not to miss when in Surigao City:

Sayongsong. Sayongsong is Surigao City's delicacy. It is made of sticky rice, coconut milk, and sugar, and wrapped in a banana leaf like a cone. What does it taste like? To me it tastes like baye baye from Iloilo, but a lot softer. To my friend it tastes "like brains!" I wonder whose brains she had eaten.

Sayongsong
Photo by Brennan Mercado of Baktin Corporation

Isaw. Because I think Surigao City has the best isaw! But what is isaw? Uhh...chicken intestines. "Ewww," you say? Ewww to isaw from other places, but yum to Surigao's isaw! Surigao's isaw are cut down the middle, cleaned, and grilled to a slight crisp. Isaw can be had at any of the barbecue stalls just outside the Port of Surigao City.

Seafood. I never had the taste for crabs, but all that changed when I visited Surigao City for the first time, about 12 years ago, and my friend set down a platter of fat crabs on the table. For our recent visit to Surigao City, we sniffed our way around for some seafood and found Babielyn's Kitchenette, a carinderia in the Public Market, and Ocean Bounties Restaurant just across Babielyn's. Babielyn's offers seafood in addition to the usual carinderia fare; seafood dishes cost Php120 per order. We splurged at Ocean Bounties and spent about Php 450 each for a very satisfying lunch of clam chowder, half a kilo of grilled fish, and half a kilo of garlic chili crab.

Clam chowder, grilled fish, and garlic chili crab at Ocean Bounties

Heading Away From the City. But not really. When stifled by the heat emanating from concrete structures of the city, head on to the beaches of Surigao City, just a 30–minute ride away.

Mabua Pebble Beach. The clear waters of Mabua will make you want to jump right in. Its smooth stones will give your feet a massage as you walk on them. The open cottages on the beach can shelter 10 persons and cost from Php 250 to 300 per cottage. To get to Mabua Pebble Beach, hire a tricycle for Php 200 (up to 6 persons) or take a jeepney to the crossing for Mabua (Php 18) and then a habalhabal to Mabua Pebble Beach (Php 10). Going back to the city, if you can catch a tricycle, would only cost Php 20 per person.

Mabua Pebble Beach

Looc Pebble Beach. A little bit of exercise is required to reach Looc Pebble Beach. From Mabua Pebble Beach, climb 380 steps over and down a hill to find Looc Pebble Beach, where the pebbles have significantly diminished, not in number, but in size; but where the waters have remained just as clear.

Mustachio and the Sea of Stories

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...or...
Bungoton and the Dinagat Stories


Dina Gat

Once upon a time, two royal bloods, Prinsesa Dina and Prinsepe Gat, whose tribes were at war with each other, believed in the saying "make love, not war." They eloped and ran (or maybe swam) away to an island in the Pacific. But when their peaceful island life was shattered by invaders, they swam away, never to be heard from again. Their disappearance coincided with the appearance of land formations, one shaped like a sleeping pregnant woman, the other shaped like a sleeping man. The woman-shaped mountain was aptly called Babaeng Bukid (female mountain), believed to be Prinsesa Dina; and the man-shaped island was called Lalaking Bukid (male mountain), believed to be Prinsepe Gat.

Top photo: Prinsepe Gat or Unib Island
Bottom photo: Prinsesa Dina or Mount Palhe (on the background)


Dinagat Islands

Babaeng Bukid (on the main island of Dinagat), Lalaking Bukid (Unib Island), and the islands in between, collectively called Dinagat Islands, were once under the jurisdiction of the province of Surigao del Norte. In 2006, these group of islands was declared a new province. Three years later, some people petitioned for that declaration to be nullified and the Supreme Court of the Philippines granted the petition. And then a little over a year after the nullification, the Supreme Court nullified the nullification—in less confusing words, dismissed the petition and decided that, yes, Dinagat Islands should be a province after all. And so I write corrected: Dinagat Islands was twice under the jurisdiction of the province of Surigao del Norte.


Islander's Castle
San Jose

At present, the province of Dinagat Islands is ruled by a queen keeping watch over all her people from her lofty castle. Just kidding. There's no queen. Dinagat Islands is ruled by Governor Glenda Ecleo, and that huge castle sitting magnificently on top of the hill is her mansion.



Stingray Islet
San Jose

The queen governor chose a spot for her castle well. It affords a sweeping view of her kingdom, including Lalaking Bukid (Unib Island) and an islet called Stingray Islet. I wanted to think that it was named Stingray Islet because there were a lot of stingrays in the waters surrounding it, but no, it was because it was shaped like a stingray. Bummer.

Stingray Islet, Lalaking Bukid, and Sibanac Island as seen from Islander's Castle


PBMA Shrine
San Jose

Seventy percent of the queen's subjects (aka citizens of Dinagat Islands) are members of the Philippine Benevolent Missionaries Association (PBMA) whose founder was the king himself: Ruben Edera Ecleo Sr. This organization remains a mystery to me as our guide, being a member, wouldn't share much about the organization. If you want to know more about them, you have to join them, he said. What our guide did share was that the PBMA Shrine was built by volunteers after the death of their founder in 1987.

Note: Visitors can enter the PBMA Shrine but must follow a dress code. Females must wear a skirt on or below the knee and a white shirt without any print except for approved PBMA prints. Males must wear pants and a white tee or polo shirt without any print except for approved PBMA prints. Cameras and mobile phones with cameras are not allowed inside; these are to be deposited at the gate.

PBMA Shrine
Photo from wikipedia


Bababu Lake
Basilisa

Foreigner: What's the name of this place?
Local: Baba sa Buaya.
Foreigner's tongue all atangle: Bababu?

Baba sa buaya. Visayan for croc's mouth. A croc's mouth that has eaten many a local...is everyone's nightmare. Thankfully, it's just that—a  nightmare. There are no crocodiles at the beach nor in the lake. Baba sa buaya only refers to the shape of the cove where Bababu Beach is located. Bababu Beach is where the trail to the lake starts. It takes about 45 minutes to reach the lake; an hour for those who have been sitting on their butt for too long. 

The lake is connected to the sea via a 650-meter underwater tunnel. When the tide is high, the water in the lake rises too, but the saltwater and the fresh water don't mix. The locals believe the waters of Bababu Lake has healing powers. Young and old make the hike up to the lake to bathe, to drink, to collect bottles of lake water.

I made the hike up to the lake to bathe pee. Just kidding. Or am I? *Evil laugh*

Bababu Beach

Bababu Lake


Sundayo Beach
Hagakgak Island, Basilisa

You know how, in the Surigaonon dialect, the letter L is turned into Y? Sundalo to sundayo? Story goes that a sundalo/sundayo (soldier) got stranded on this island and made like Tom Hanks in the movie Cast Away. I lie. This beach was named Sundayo Beach for the very simple reason that the house on this beach is owned by a soldier.



Cabacongan Beach
Unib Island (Lalaking Bukid), Basilisa

Cabacongan Beach, also known as Kalaw Sanctuary, is on the backside of Lalaking Bukid, where one can see Prinsepe Gat's butt and his precious jewels. His butt is home of the kalaws (hornbills). We did not see any hornbill though, just Prinsepe Gat's butt hole.

Prinsepe Gat's got a big butt


Bitaog Beach
Unib Island (Lalaking Bukid), Basilisa

How do you name a beach? By its most distinctive feature? Yes? Then you must be on the same brain frequency as the people who named Bitaog Beach. This beach was named such because of the huge Bitaog tree on the beach. Now there is no Bitaog Tree, just Bitaog Beach and its fine white sands and clear waters.




Pangabangan Tidal Pool
Pangabangan Island, Libjo

A huge meteor zoomed and crashed into this part of Dinagat Islands, thus forming this huge chasm. Or so the unwritten legend says. But, really, it's just a tidal pool. A beautiful, inviting, deep, aquamarine tidal pool.



Punta Buena Suerte Resort
Libjo

Punta Buena Suerta where they're lucky to have a beautiful underwater universe perfect for snorkeling. Where our boatman was lucky to have seen a pawikan (sea turtle) as we were preparing to dock. Where I was lucky to have seen a lionfish through the crystal clear water as we were preparing to disembark. But that's where our luck ended. We did not get to explore this underwater world because we became too comfortable sitting under the shade of a tree while exchanging stories with our guide.




Who to Contact for More Information
To know more about this young province and its many islands or to arrange your trip around Dinagat Islands, contact any of Dinagat Islands' Tourism Liaison Officers:
  • Mark Casiano Acain 0908 472 3676
  • Connie Marzan Macalua 0921 840 9123
  • Ezequiel Divinagracia Nimeño 0929 558 1242

How to Go to San Jose, Dinagat Islands
San Jose is the capital of the province of Dinagat Islands. There are daily boat trips to San Jose leaving from the boulevard of Surigao City. The boat trip takes about an hour and 10 minutes, and costs Php 100 per person.


Where to Stay in Dinagat Islands
We stayed in Bahay Turista Mini Chalet, which also houses the province's tourism office. An air conditioned room for two costs Php 500; extra head for Php 200. The room is quite big and can accommodate four persons. Towels, soap, and toilet paper are provided.


How Much to Prepare for Island Hopping
An outrigger boat for island hopping would cost Php 3500 and above, and would depend on the size of the outrigger and the destinations. Outriggers can be arranged through the Tourism Office.


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